Time Between Milling and Paving Frustrates Drivers - Erie News Now: News, Weather & Sports | WICU 12 & WSEE
Time Between Milling and Paving Frustrates Drivers - Erie News Now: News, Weather & Sports | WICU 12 & WSEE
Time between milling and paving frustrates drivers
The city of Erie is in the process of three million dollars worth of street paving and repairs.& That's the good news and there are no complaints about that. But the trouble is, when streets are milled down in preparation for the re-paving, and they stay that way for days, they can become an obstacle course.We spent some time today just watching drivers navigate the conditions on 7th Street west of Liberty. Manhole covers can protrude several inches after a street is milled. In this neighborhood the street was milled very early in the morning last Thursday.& Now almost a week later, it's still not paved. That has neighbors and drivers alike concerned.& Antonia Edwards lives on the corner &I'm concerned with where the manhole is right there on the corner somebody's going to come around the road really fast and hit that and lose control of their car.&& Paula Dixon has to driver over the street on her way home. &It's a one way street, it's already so narrow and now you have to maneuver around the manholes as you say, and after all the bumps and dips, i can't imagine what we're going to have to do to our cars after it's all over.&It can be dangerous too.& On Monday night, at Chestnut and Stafford Streets, along another milled area, a motorcyclist hit one of the manhole covers and was hurt.Mayer Brothers construction is the contractor on the job. They say they are fielding many complaints from drivers and residents.& The use bright orange spray paint to mark the danger spots. Company Vice President Jack Laver said with as many as 30 streets in the paving process, sequencing is tough.& It can take from two to ten days to get to the paving, especially where there are parked cars. They need to post with three days notice when crews will be in to pave.& If the city is coordinating any utility repairs, as long as streets are torn up, that slows things down more.&Until the paving is complete, Mayer Brothers asked drivers to be on the look out for rough roads.& They plan to work overtime to get the job done as quickly as possible.& They hope to have the entire paving contract completed by October 1.&
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Exclusive interview with Erie native, Sean Scully, who will be starring in the upcoming Discovery Channel mini-series, Harley and the Davidsons. Exclusive interview with Erie native, Sean Scully, who will be starring in the upcoming Discovery Channel mini-series, Harley and the Davidsons.Donald Trump is the first candidate to campaign in the area since the primary election.Donald Trump is the first candidate to campaign in the area since the primary election.Derrys SandersDerrys Sanders, now 15, was 14 years old when police say he fatally shot the Pushinsky while stealing the victim's bicycle along East 8th Street.Derrys Sanders, now 15, was 14 years old when police say he fatally shot the Pushinsky while stealing the victim's bicycle along East 8th Street.St. Paul's Cathedral is hosting their annual Italian Festival this weekend, complete with food, fun, and featured musicians. All weekend long. St. Paul's Cathedral is hosting their annual Italian Festival this weekend, complete with food, fun, and featured musicians. All weekend long.Donald Trump's rally certainly stoked some fires, especially people in Erie County.Donald Trump's rally certainly stoked some fires, especially people in Erie County.Outside Erie Insurance Arena today, a couple dozen protesters made it clear, they are no fans of Donald Trump.& Outside Erie Insurance Arena today, a couple dozen protesters made it clear, they are no fans of Donald Trump.&Tim Taylor needs help purchasing a new vanA 2003 accident left a local man paralyzed.& His recovery has come a however, now, Tim Taylor needs additional help.&A 2003 accident left a local man paralyzed.& His recovery has come a however, now, Tim Taylor needs additional help.&If you're headed to the Donald Trump rally, here are the basics you should know before you go.If you're headed to the Donald Trump rally, here are the basics you should know before you go.
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Local Weather App如何评价2月13号BBC播放的《Bulldozers, Paving Stones and Power
The Chinese Mayor 》-《中国市长》?
[cp]又一年Sundance。这一次赵琦和他的团队的The Chinese Mayor拿到了圣丹斯世界纪录片竞赛单元的评委会特别奖！（Special Jury Award）再次恭喜！ ??? [/cp]--微博转发。
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既然很多人跟我说，要看政绩，要看结果，不要在意烂毁文物、留一屁股债这些“细枝末节”。那好。咱们看看耿某的政绩如何？统计数字显示，2007年大同市GDP为480.0亿元，还是全省第6位；但到2012年，大同市GDP虽然增长到931.3亿元，落到了第9位。财政收入也从2007年的第6位滑落到第8位。城镇居民人均可支配收入和农民人均纯收入的排位则没有变化，仍旧保持在第8、9位。耿某人口口声声要把大同打造为旅游城市，让大同人不再挖煤，结果呢？耿彦波在大同大手笔修复云冈石窟、大同古城等一系列文化旅游项目，但这五年来大同的旅游成绩却并没有取得领先。从旅游总收入的增长速度来对比，大同的增速与山西的总体速度相比，2009年和2010年曾微弱领先，但近两年却大幅落后，分别落后了8.3和15.81个百分点。反倒是这帮政绩党所不屑的环保小清新，耿某人倒玩得还凑合，把大同搞成了省级环保模范城市。耿粉如今也只好靠着“你去问问大同人”，“我认识的大同人如何如何“之类无法证实的所谓”民间口碑“来撑场子。且不说庸众本身就判断力低下，就我认识的大同人，为啥都认为耿某是个妄人？================================================================是个好的纪录片，但要注意，这个纪录片是有选择性的，拍摄的镜头都是经过耿允许的。而且，片中也明确提示了，很多幕后的交易被禁止拍摄。这部片子确实需要看的人有一定的背景知识，否则看不出片子背后的深意。某些人看了之后大赞耿是青天大老爷，却忽视了耿拖欠巨额工程款的问题（使得他的后任难以为继）、忽视了耿以发展文化为名拆除真文物的问题（片中有个片段，耿去某个现场看石刻石碑的残片，连声叫好。但有几个观众会想到这是耿把原文物完全拆毁后保留几个残片以便日后装点门面的？）。感兴趣的可以去搜阮仪三（中国古城镇的规划保护专家）对耿彦波做法的评价。耿彦波这种官员是很讨上级和老百姓欢心的。上级喜欢他的政绩，下层喜欢这种能带来“变化”的、能“干事”的官员。但是他的前任或者后任，是没能力干事还是知道这么干不行，是个问题。某些人只看到耿的后任的“无能”，却不想想为什么。是他的后任真的不想把大同搞好还是忙着给耿擦屁股都来不及呢？不要把现在大同的乱像归因于耿的后任，耿才应该负主要责任。我很怀疑，就算耿留在大同，他能不能把他的那一屁股欠债打理好？敢拆敢建的官员不少，仇和就是一例，拆嘛，拆到资金链断裂为止呗。
因众所周知的原因，原答案已删除。
过年回家 一年多没有回家的我 从城南步行到了最北 看着矗立的四面城墙 还有与城墙相隔咫尺的没拆完的楼房 看着华灯初上的古城 和其中错落的老旧平房 象极了一个巨大的后现代艺术实验场 簇新与破败矛盾的共存 心里是一种复杂感受 这不是老耿的失败 老耿为大同人留下了有形财富 更重要的是精神 这是体制的失败 在可见的未来 大同 在集体狂热的奋进后将继续沉沦 离题了 作为耿执政时期的亲历者 个人觉得导演已完成了对耿的形象刻画 客观的记录 也为继续深层思考留下空间 耿的形象符合我的认知曾陪领导见过耿两面 每一次都是在将近饭点才看到风尘仆仆的耿 刚从工地回来 膝盖以下包括皮鞋从来是泥灰色 后来看了BBC对赵琦的采访 （确认不是BBC.应该是电影节美国当地媒体，链接 主持人说谢谢导演让我们知道中国不只有贪腐官员 也有这种干事的官员 中国官员原来不都是poker face 也有有人情味的官员
我跟耿市长只在大同有过一面之缘，关于他的事迹前后听了不少。他是一个真正有魄力去推动城市发展的人。我很佩服他。
看了这么多答案，全是信口开河，不了解实际情况，空讲大道理，键盘侠们，我向你们致敬！本来不想无所谓争论，我也不喜欢讨论经济政治，但看到
此人放屁（原谅我说脏话，实在义愤填膺！）这类人：站在那里，指手画脚，运筹帷幄，一眼看三国，一副天下尽在我掌握之中的姿态，呵呵，我也会！别了解点皮毛，就搬弄是非，到处胡说八道，让人觉得恶心。第一个屁确实是屁：耿某人口口声声要把大同打造为旅游城市，让大同人不再挖煤，结果呢？大同之所以转型，因为无煤可挖，你意思是政府是不让你挖煤？试问这样一个传统煤炭工业城市没有煤，何去何从？牛逼哄哄讲了一堆屁话，你给支个招？机车厂现在大多数车间熄工的熄工，同煤今年也完蛋，支柱企业败落数不胜数。这是GDP下降的根本原因。传统产业在08年就行将就死，一直靠着中央四万亿多活几年，试问不转型，不搞城建，干嘛去？大同人吃啥，喝啥？第二个屁有点长：耿粉如今也只好靠着“你去问问大同人”，“我认识的大同人如何如何“之类无法证实的所谓”民间口碑“来撑场子。且不说庸众本身就判断力低下，就我认识的大同人，为啥都认为耿某是个妄人？耿粉？是什么意思，我不懂，我是土生土长大同人，我是大同人，不是耿粉。如果民众是庸众，甚至有人用到民粹这个词，那你又何尝不是？不过是文人相轻，可笑至极。换句话说，我是个受损者。我家原先住在小东门，在大同的知道，那里是原来的商业中心，房价自然不必说。因为修建南城墙，拆迁后分到御鑫亮城那破地方。这其中的亏损就你这破文章写多少字值？装修，搬迁费用你出？后来嫌弃地方不好，卖了拆迁房，凯德世家购置一套，这其中的四五十万差价你出？别一天在这口诛笔伐放屁喽。说实话，我对耿很不爽。但父母说，凡事顾大局，大家也这样，你自不必说。换句话说，很多评价耿彦波好的人相当多的是受损者。如果老百姓感受到生活发生了好的变化，发出感叹，就是耿粉？庸众？我觉得你十分可笑，可笑至极！第三个屁味道有点复杂：某些人看了之后大赞耿是青天大老爷，却忽视了耿拖欠巨额工程款的问题（使得他的后任难以为继）、忽视了耿以发展文化为名拆除真文物的问题（片中有个片段，耿去某个现场看石刻石碑的残片，连声叫好。工程款？呵呵，只有耿欠，别人都不拖欠。全中国的商人和政府都好打交道？你是书呆子还是每天坐在家里异想天开？和大同大学政法学院副院长赵宗凌聊过，就学校这种事业单位盖图书馆都要扣尾款，何况老公家？文物？咱说说城墙，零零散散，历史上也没人保护，就是些土堆，土坯子。城墙早就不存在了，何谈保护问题？以前也没人保护，墙砖早就没了，这个你要是来过大同自己去评价。别就在网上看看照片，看看文字，就在这摆道理，这样的人海了去了。再说说明清古居。你还把阮仪三搬出来，你们一样都是纸上谈兵！我小学经常偷偷去华林玩街机，就是抄近路走的城墙里的古居，我去，说古居我都脸红，说城中村真是给面子。真相就是：那特么就是一片贫民窟。本来就没人保护，早就弄得乱七八糟，老百姓根据生活需要杂七杂八拥堵在一起，和养猪场相比的区别就是：这里住的是人。阮仪三看到的不知是图片上的，还是哪里的，让他去看看真实的情况，你再问问他愿不愿意保护。我本人真心看不出哪里像古代民居。但我真的知道贫民窟长什么样子。再换句话说，假如 生活在这里，试问哪个姑娘愿意嫁给你，住在这里，有钱的早就搬走了，剩下的就是些社会底层的不能再底层的，还明清居民区，我呸！就是被社会遗弃的贫民窟。拆迁起码换个楼房，起码孩子有个娶媳妇的资本。假如现在倒退几年，你问这些拆迁户愿不愿意回去？最后一个屁：耿彦波这种官员是很讨上级和老百姓欢心的。讨上级欢心我看不出来，一天到晚都是告状的，耿某没少吃批评。干一件事，被搞一次。你知道多不容易？上级喜欢乖乖的，不惹事，不干大事的，You Know？讨老百姓欢心？刚来处处被骂，说大兴土木，为自己搞政绩。干了几年下来，为啥不骂了。原因很简单：拿钱办事，还办的很好。你这个书呆子记住：老百姓只骂一种人，拿钱不办事。不怕你贪污，就怕你不干活。这句话：某些人只看到耿的后任的“无能”，却不想想为什么。是他的后任真的不想把大同搞好还是忙着给耿擦屁股都来不及呢？不要把现在大同的乱像归因于耿的后任，耿才应该负主要责任。还算中肯，但你不懂，希望你这个书呆子明白，耿的出现是顾大局。山西从以前到现在各种历史原因，黑恶势力，落后的观念等等原因，导致发展停滞不前。现在需要这么一个人打破条条框框，开个头，不然何时会有个变化？换句话说，领导和国家比你懂，比你看得真！都希望耿把山西的城市先变变样，得罪那么多人，不然早就弄下去了。这是领导的决策，政策的支持，你以为他在胡作非为？别动不动：理论上怎么样，专家怎么说，那实际得怎么样才行！就大同以前，专家和大V们说了，是古城，要保护！我呸，就是一个鸟不拉屎的地方。别嫌弃掏粪的人把粪溅了一地，有本事你自己去掏。再揪出来还有一个很扯的话：就我认识的大同人，为啥都认为耿某是个妄人？你认识大同人？我表示怀疑，而且，你就是认识而已，认识而已？你自己都不是，瞎bb什么？别一回答问题，我认识谁谁谁，还是谁谁谁和我说，装认识说话就有理？所以，岗跟你说，别到处邹币，小心下榻脑子！
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Grass Paving Systems - John Morris - Jan 17th 2001
First of all congratulations on an excellent web site, askjeeves found you. Is it possible / advisable in practice to lay plastic grass paving (such as turf guard etc) directly onto compacted soil ie without using a hard core sub-base. Also having laid the structure is it possible / advisable to lay turf on top or do you have to seed it.
Tony McCormack - Jan 17th 2001
It's really not advisable to lay any of the proprietary grass systems on compacted earth. They really do need a sub-base if you intend to traffic them, otherwise they'll sink or break.
Also, you should follow the manufacturers recommendations for filling with top-soil and the grass mixture. Ordinary turf could cause problems, especially if laid directly over the system units. All the grass paving systems rely on carefully designed components, which includes the sub-base, the rootzone and even the seed mix. You can't afford to cut corners, otherwise you compromise the system integrity.
Laying Terracotta Tiles - John House - Feb 8th 2001
The path in my garden is covered in red terracotta tiles each about 5" square and 1" thick.
I guess that they're about the same age as the house (Victorian) and in places they've lifted up and some have cracked.
I'd like to re-lay them, but am not sure what sort of bedding layer to use?
Should I treat them like patio flags or follow a different technique.
The current base looks like some sort of
concrete mix.
Tony McCormack - Feb 8th 2001
They need to be treated as tiles rather than flags/slabs, John. Take them up, clean them off and set them to one side. Break out the old concrete bed and dispose before laying a new concrete base for the tiles, keeping it around 12-20mm low. Once the concrete has set, they can be relaid using a mortar bed or one of the special outdoor/quarry tile adhesives sold at most Builders' Merchants.
They are lovely old things, those tiles, and well worth keeping hold of. Good luck!
Shed Base - Ivan - Mar 5th 2001
I need to lay a base for a timber shed. 2m by 2.5m. I have been told by my farther not worry about digging out the ground and setting a sub base of ballast/hardcore etc. but to lay the concrete direct on the earth - will this work?
Tony McCormack - Mar 5th 2001
Depends what the existing ground is like, Ivan. There's no need to go to loads of ef if you're planning on having a concrete base, then I'd suggest digging down 150mm, blinding the sub-grade with 50mm or so of DTp1 or grit sand, covering that with a sheet of 1200 gauge visqueen and then your 100mm concrete.
If the existing ground is suspect in anyway, then it might be worth putting in a decent sub-base to bear the weight of the concrete and the shed, plus all its inevitable paraphernalia, but in 99 cases out of 100, the above will be more than adequate.
Cobbles by the sheet - Alan Arnett - Apr 6th 2001
Recently (in a magazine I now can't find) I seem to recall seeing that someone is manufacturing small cobble or sett type products on a 'backing sheet or net' so that you could lay them more easily, rather like the way you can buy mosaic tiles.
Anyone have any ideas who and where I can look at some?
Tony McCormack - Apr 9th 2001
The product to which you refer is probably 'Carpet Stones'. There are contact details in the
section of my site, annd you might be able to see them 'in the flesh' at your local B&Q Warehouse. Be warned, though, they are bloody pricey!!
PIC Steps facing - Lennie - Apr 21st 2001
hi there u have replied to two of my queries and i have now agreed a price,seen the work of etc. for the job
now the problem
- has anyone seen steps in pic (pattern inprinted concrete) and if so what was used for the facing, brick in a blended colour is the only suggestion from the contactor OR heavens forbid paint the concrete in a similar colour.
p.s. thanks for the site without it i would have given up some time ago
Tony McCormack - Apr 22nd 2001
from what I've seen of PIC jobs, they tend to use the block paving kerb units to form the riser of steps, and then use the PIC to form the tread. You could use almost anything, from engineering brick, stone cobbles/setts, edging kerbs or walling stone, depending on which pattern and colour scheme you have chosen
Slate paving in the garden - Jill Turner - May 2nd 2001
What are the pros and cons for using slate paving for patio and path in the garden? Will Aquaseal prevent staining, and how often does it need to be applied?
Tony McCormack - May 3rd 2001
it all depends on the type of slate and how you lay it. Laid flat on a cementitious bed, it's very attractive and quite simple to do, but care needs to be taken with the mortar when pointing otherwise it will look like a right mess. for some reason I've never been able to put my finger on, slate shows up poor/sloppy pointing more than any other form of paving. Using a black or dark brown mortar will help minimise any adverse looks, but then, a plain 'white' mortar shows up the individual elements better - it's all a matter of taste.
Some slate can be slippery when wet, but cleaved slate (as opposed to sawn slate) is usually less so. Also, you may find that unsealed slate becomes colonised by mosses and algaes in shady, untrafficked spots.
There's been a surge of interest in slate laid on-edge over the past few years, but this is a challenge to do and to get to look right, not something I'd recommend for those with limited patience, but it is very, very attractive as an edge detail or in smaller areas.
Aquaseal is not something I I'd use a high quality , something like Resiblock 22, which I would expect to last at least 4 years, whereas the Aqualseal, being acrylic and not primarily developed for paved surfaces, could well turn out to be an annual task.
Good luck!
- Jill Turner - May 10th 2001
Many thanks for reply, yours is a brilliant site!I am still fretting, am putting down 75mm of aggregate on hardish soil/tarmac mess as substrate, then what sort of concrete mix do you recommend and how thick? I want to lay tiles a few at a time, shall I leave 5mm between them? and then point with thin mix (how thin?) what ratio sand and cement? The slate tiles are about 300mm square by 12mm thick and they are called chinese lilac.Have got an impregnating sealer which has been recommended by supplier who is generally not very helpful sadly. They have assured me that they are ok for outside but i am nervous as they cost a lot of money for me. All info gratefully received.
Thanks again, Jill
Tony McCormack - May 10th 2001
Hi again Jill,
use a 75mm thick bed of Class E concrete (that's approximately a 1:3:6 mix of cement/sand/gravels). That should be fine for foot traffic. Keep the added water to the mix needs only be damp, not sopping wet. This will make laying the tiles that much easier and also reduce the amount of staining.
Jointing should be 6-10mm, I'd guess, and pointed with a 1:4 mortar.
Jill Turner - May 12th 2001
Many thanks Tony,did check after on site, cements and mortars bit. Would love to send you pix. most worried about drainage incline, but im sure will be able to sort it out thanx to your pages but am just worrying, when you've spent that much money and done all that research etc etc.
Thanx for interest, info etc. yours jill
PAVING OR CONCRETE - TREVOR HUGHES - May 2nd 2001
AS THE CONCRETE IN OUR BACK HAS BEEN CRACKING FOR A FEW YEARS NOW,AND I WOULD LIKE TO ASK WEATHER IT WOULD BE POSSIBLE TO LAY PAVING ON TOP OF THE OLD CONCRETE OR LAY NEW CONCRETE OVER THE OLD
WITHOUT HAVING TO DIG UP THE OLD CONCRETE. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE HELPFUL
Tony McCormack - May 3rd 2001
Hi Trevor,
paving and/or new concrete can be laid over old concrete but there are a couple of important caveats. Firstly, you must ensure that the new surface is not going to compromise the
(dpc) that is, the new surface must be at least 150mm below the dpc.
Also, if the old concrete is cracked, these cracks can propagate through the new paving/concrete and make an unwelcome appearance in the new surface in as little as 6 months in severe cases.This is because the concrete beneath the new paving will continue to shift/settle over time. In some cases the added load/weight of the new paving actually accelerates the movement.
My usual recommendation in these cases is to rtip out the old concrete and start afresh. It's one of those things that might take you a day or so extra labour and a couple of hundred quid to sort out, but if you take the easy option and hope for the best, you won't half be pizdov if it does move!~)
PS - using all capital letters is the 'net equivalent of SHOUTING! - Do us a favour and make sure caps lock is off before typing. Good man!
Fan pattern - Lesley Brady - May 8th 2001
My Husband has spent all bank holiday weekend laying cobbles in the fan pattern - it looks great but there are quite a lot of large spaces now he has been over the cobbles with the machine (I cant remember what its called)
to level them out.
He is very concerned about the gaps - obviously there were gaps before are the pattern is curved and the cobbles are square, but now they seem worse in place - it spoils the pattern a bit and also the weeks are going to grow like mad in the gaps - has anyone got any ideas - I really want to keep the pattern.
Steve Stiansen - May 9th 2001
Not sure what you mean by 'fan' pattern, but will take a guess and say maybe he will need to rent a concrete saw (if he hasn't already) and start cutting custom pieces to fill the gaps.
How large are the gaps?
If over a half inch, they could be a trip hazard in the near future.
Sand will not fill gaps for very long if they are that large, as if will wash out quickly.
I would suggest cutting as the best solution. You may have to pull a few sections up and actually cut a row or two of the cobbles to maintain the pattern.
(i mean you may need to trim a few down in a row so that you don't have to just stick one little sliver in)
Lot of good info on the saws here at the site if you look in the
Should be able to rent one, but the blade will be pricy as they charge you for wear.
Tony McCormack - May 9th 2001
Hi Lesley,
the joints need to be sealed in some way. My preferred method is to use , as described on the site, but you could use a high-strength mortar, preferably one enhanced with SBR, an additive you can buy from Builders' Merchants. Also, a dark coloured or black mortar looks much better with cobbles/setts.
I recently sealed a fan-pattern driveway for a reader of this site and will be putting up some pictures in the near future. I used pitch, for the traditional look and the finished job now looks wonderful, even if I say so myself.
Reinforced grass paving - William Allen - May 14th 2001
Currently I have a driveway going through my back yard that takes up a considerable portion of the usable space.
I would like to replace the paving with some sort of reinforced grass system that will prevent ruts yet still allow childern to play on it.
the drive currently has 4 crossings per day and occasionally short term parking by guests.
Any help as far as experiance with these products or places to go to get information would be helpful.
So far your site has the most information I have been able to find on the subject.
Also the grade of the drive is 1% so it is relitivly flat.
Tony McCormack - May 15th 2001
Grass paving systems are quite expensive for domestic applications, so it's usually a matter of shoppinbg around to find a supplier or stockist with the right product for your project at the right price.
However, you mention that the 'grade' of your drive is only 1% which makes me suspect you are not UK-based, as 'grade' is not a term we it's far more common in N America.
If that is the case, there's not much I can do to advise you, as I have no knowldege of the the paving market on the left hand side of the pond. You could try some of the links featured on my site to grass paving companies and see if they have outlets in your neck of the woods, but beyond that, there's really very little I can say.
Meanwhile, if I've completely misread the situation and you are stuck in these soggy islands like me, I'd suggest you contact Cooper Clarke in Bolton (address on
page) and ask them about their EcoGrid range - that has often proved to be the most cost-effective solution for smaller, residential grass paving projects (ie, less than 500m²)
Which surface for a drive? - Norman Williamson -Jul 13th 2001
I am planning to resurface my driveway (@300 yards length). At present it is tarmac which has been satisfactory for the last 16 years. The surface wearing course is now loose due to vehicle turning etc and remedial work is necessary. I have considered block paving but all established local paved drives seem to suffer badly from weed and moss growth between the blocks. I know you can seal the blocks and joints with a sealant but is it really a long term solution?
Alternately, I could resurface the drive with tarmac. Is there a simple surface sealing coat that can be applied or must the old topping be removed and completely relaid? (The base is fine, no movement etc) What are my options?
Third and last question (thanks for the patience) could I use one of the new epoxy coated finishes or would it scrub off with turning vehicles?
Tony McCormack - Jul 16th 2001
Norman asked....
I know you can seal the blocks and joints with a sealant but is it really a long term solution?
Yes. When done properly, with a quality sealant, the weeds, mosses and other undesirables have no place to get a hold and so find it much more difficult to establish themselves. However, they will find a home in any detritus that accumulates on the surface, so you will still need to brush and/or power wash at regular intervals to dislodge this unavoidable surface crud.
Alternately, I could resurface the drive with tarmac. Is there a simple surfave sealing coat that ca be applied or must the old topping be removed and completely relaid? (The base is fine. no movement etc) What are my options?
Without being familiar with the drive itself, I would hazard a guess that you should be able to overlay the existing with a new wearing course, after all the loose material has been removed and a tack-coat applied. That will result in a significant cost saving to yourself.
Third and last question (thanks for the patience) could I use one of the new epoxy coated finishes or would it scrub off with turning vehicles?
You could, but you'll need deep pockets. Again, I'm not familiar with your particular drive, but, as a rough guide, an
will cost approcximately 3 times the price of a brand new bitmac drive.
Heavy Clay bedding - Martin Wakeling - Jul 30th 2001
I wanted to lay a white gravel patio, but on digging up the previous concrete mess, I have discovered that the bedding is heavy clay with extremely poor drainage. I was hoping to be able to put down a couple of inches of sub-base and then put the gravel on top. Is this likely to be sufficient drainage or am I likely to need a more formal drainage system?
Tony McCormack - Jul 31st 2001
Hi Martin,
assuming there is no vehicle overrun of this patio, I'd suggest laying a length or two of 80mm diameter perforated land drain in channels cut into the clay (see
pages) and backfilling with a clean pea-gravel. The land drain could be connected up to a convenient outfall or drainage point.
Then, I'd lay a strong , such as Terram 1000 over the clay and the land drainage, and place my sub-base material over that. the membrane will prevent the stone becoming mixed with the clay and will allow surface water to find its way to the drainage without washing away the sub-base or the decorative gravel.
Self Binding Gravel - Denny - 11 Mar 2002
I am intending to lay a new driveway using scalpings with Coxwell self binding gravel (SBG) on the top.
I have 2 MHC's and was wondering if I can fit a recess cover and fill it with the SBG.
Unfortunantly one of them lies directly under the wheel tracks of the car.
Do you think it would be possible to fill the recess tray with a cement base and then 'stick' a layer of the SBG on the top of this to make it look like solid SBG?
The only thing I can think of about this solution is that the 'flex' in the recess tray will lead to severe cracking of the cement/SBG mix.
Any ideas peeps? I'd be very grateful.
Tony McCormack - 11 Mar 2002
thanks for the comments in the Visitor Book, by the way.
I wouldn't bother using a cement-bound material in the recess trays. Fill them to about 30mm below the top with DTp1, pack that down firmly, and then use the SBG (hoggin) as a top dressing. It might need topping up occasionally - it's always worth keeping a half agg-bag of the hoggin somewhere out of the way, as, when you come to top up the drive, as you will, you can never ever get a colour match!
If the tray flexes a lot when trafficked, you can get a strengthening brace welded to the base - we've done this on
that have been paved with tarmac.
Setts suppliers - Matt Taylor - 29 May 2002
I was looking at your pages on setts and am very interested in using them for a patio. An office near my office has them in a courtyard and they look great.
However, I tried going to both Bradstone's and Marshall's websites to look for them without any joy. I found something that initially looked like what I wanted at Bradstone's but it turned out to be fake setts mounted on slabs -- no offense but YUCK!!
I am looking for fine picked ones -- bearing in mind one of your cons about this matter -- either 100x100x100 or 100x100x50. Could you recommend to me the names and details of some suppliers?
Thanks,Matt
Tony McCormack - 29 May 2002
YUCK is a very polite term for what I think of those bloody monstrosities, Matt! I wouldn't use them under a shed, let alone on a patio!
Peversely, both Marshalls and Bradstone (in their Aggregate Industries outfit) actually supply genuine granite setts but they don't promote them much to the residential market, for some unknown reason. Bardon do a SlimSett (why do these companies always have to come up with a cheesy name for their products?) which is easy to work with, but hard to source in smaller quantities.
How many do you need? In square metres, that is? And whereabouts are you? Up here in t'north reclaimed granite cubes can be sourced from the salvage yards for around 60-90 quid per tonne, with each tonne covering 4-5 m², but darn sarff, they're a bit pricey, over 100 quid per tonne, I believe.
Matt Taylor31 May 2002
thanks for your reply.
The area is approximately 24 square metres and it is &darn sarff&.
You're right about the Marshall's site, it's not very diy/homeowner friendly. By coincidence, I solved the mystery of their site yesterday, finding all &the good stuff& in their professional site.
Setts or cubes, how should I decide? My feeling is that the 50mm thick ones would suit my needs fine. It also saves me 50 mm of height too as the footing for my house is VERY shallow. What other considerations should I keep in mind in making a decision?
Thanks again,Matt
Tony McCormack31 May 2002
Using the sawn gritstone setts from Marshalls or Farrars reduces the amount of labour and level of skill required to make a decent job of it. These sawn setts are laid in the same way as flexible block paving, with no need for individual bedding on a cement-bound medium, no need for complicated pointing or sealing with pitch, and you should be able to lay the lot in a single day - a weekend at most.
Laying granite cubes means preparing a concrete or mortar bed, tapping down each sett to level, checking alignment, pointing/jointing, knocking all the skin off your knuckles, struggling to cut oversize cubes with a toffee hammer and chisel.....it's a lot of work.
The end result is all that really matters, though. What look are you trying to achieve? Sawn setts look very clean and tidy, but cubes look much more olde-worlde and can be laid to fans or spirals much more readily.
Cost-wise - there's not much to choose. The reclaimed cubes are slightly cheaper to buy but more expensive to lay. Overall, both paving types work out at around 80-100 quid per m² for what is, relatively speaking, a small area (owt under 100m²).
Matt Taylor3 Jun 2002
One final question about this matter: colour?
As I wrote above, I am in London and live in a late-Victorian terrace with a &yellow& stock brick exterior.
Of course, the word &yellow& there is a bit interesting, as it certainly doesn't look like any yellow I've ever seen. There is a brick wall along one boundary wall: blue engineering bricks at top and bottom and yellow stocks in the middle. On the other boundary wall there is an old picket fence (not mine).
Is that of any help in trying to suggest a sympathetic colour?
I just think it would be a real sin to put all this effort and money into such a project only to have it turn out jarring and out of place.
Thanks again,Matt
P.S. And now, it's back to digging.
Tony McCormack
I'm familiar with the brick you mention - it's sometimes known as 'buff'.
Colourwise, the yorkstone setts go well with it, as they are a buffy-browny-ochrey colour and quite sympathetic. Granite cubes, especially the greyish-silver granites are 'neutral' and work with almost any color scheme. In fact the only cubes/setts I'd avoid are the Shap/Aberdeen pinks/red, as I despise pink and yellow together - the Dolly Mixture look!
The yorkstone will look pukka - trust me!
Bird droppings - 2old4this - 24 July 2002
Anyone know how to go about removing it?
And what about chewing gums and oil leaks
Many thanks
Tony McCormack - 24 July 2002
Bird shite can be scraped off and then washed down with hot, soapy water.
Chewing Gum is best scraped off and then left to the elements. There are gum removers that you can buy, but they are intended for town centres, shopping malls etc, and they ain' for one or two spots, it's not economic.
If you can freeze the gum, it comes up quite easily. I saw it done with dry ice(?) or something like that some years ago - the gum was sprayed from an aerosol with a liquid that rapidly turned to vapour, and then it literally flaked off the paving.
Oil - there's loads of so-called remedies. The ones that have been proven to work are listed on the
Picture Imprinted Concrete - Paull - 16 September 2002
Super site!!
I'm thinking of having Patterned Concrete laid out to my driveway to replace the old and worn tarmac. I've read some of your thoughts/comments on PIC but feel it is worth pursuing to the next stage - getting 2 - 3 quotes.
Can you give me contacts for reputable contractors in the Middlesex (London) area?
My drive is about 75 - 80 sq M.
Also, can you summarise the drawbacks or considerations before I committ - I think I understand the benefits (weed-free, does not sink, etc.)
Many thanks,
Tony McCormack - 16 September 2002
I have a policy of not recommending contractors unless I know them personally, and with Middlesex being so far off my patch, I can't say that I know any PIC contractors down there in the Styx.
There's a company based in the Midlands that has a very good reputation and do work Nationwide - Classic Impressions. Their MD is Noel Hand, and you can contact him on
during business hours. Tell him I referred you, as I was speaking with him only yesterday.
I'd still get another couple of quotes, though, just to be on the safe side - try contacting PICS in Newbury and they'll tell you who works your area and is relaible. Contact info on the
As for a summary, that's more or less given on the PIC page. PIC is sort-of weed-free, but it's NOT maintenance free - if you let crud build up in the joints, weeds will grow in the crud. Also, it doesn't sink, as long as it's laid properly - if it's laid badly or the control joints are omitted, it will sink/crack/settle.
Properly laid, it's a good surface, but it's not elemental: it's monolithic, which means big problems if anything goes wrong underneath, such as leaking gas service pipes or broken drains.
But, as I always say, it's you that has to live with this for the next god-knows-how-many years, not I, so the final choicce must be yours. If PIC sounds good to you, then give Noel a call and find out what it would cost, but also see if you can get a cost for, say, concrete block paving, over the same area, so you can compare overall costs.
Let us know how you get on.
Paull - 30 September 2002
Thanks for the tips. I thought I'd let you know how I've got on...
Spoke briefly with Noel Hand - he was leaving for a weeks leave when I called (should be back now) so may get in touch again.營 also got in touch with PICs who has passed my details on to a few contractors. These 'smaller' players appear to be a little cheaper than the 'bigger' boys (who, incidentely, are consistent in their pricing).
Should I be nervous about doing business with new/small firms who have been recommended by PICS?? These individuals tell me they were previously sub-contracting with the 'bigger boys' and have been laying concrete imprinting for 5-10 years.
Also, I'm considering PIC for my patio where there is a gradient - a 'soakaway' has been suggested under the lawn with outlets from a retaining wall to take the water away from the patio. 營s this effective?
Will probably need more advice/direction in the near future - hope you don't mind.
Thanks again.
Tony McCormack30 September 2002
The advantage of the 'bigger' companies, is that their guarantee is much more likely to be honoured. Some (not all, but some ) of the smaller 'companies' only last a season and then they're gone, and, if you have any problems, you're stuck.
Only you can choose the best contractor. Who do you feel most confident with? Who has the best portfolio and offer the best after-sales service? Who offers an insurance backed guarantee? In an ideal world, you want at least 20 years life out of this paving, so, for me, it would be worth paying a few bob extra to get the quaklity and guaranrtees that will ensure I get 20-odd years, rather than saving a few quid and seeing the damned stuff fall apart in 2005
As for the soakaway - these only work in areas that are naturally well-drained. If you're on clay, soakaways generally don't work. Where does your existing SW system drain to?
Paull - 7 October 2002
Have now had several quotes. There is a significant cost difference (35%+) between the 'big' palyers and the 'small crews'. The difference between the two smaller companies is about &1,000 for 3 different jobs totalling some 175 sq. mtrs - the cheaper one is probably making it (the price) attractive because they are setting up a new company (and need references, etc.), the slightly dearer one has an established company but is still only offering a one year guarantee (5 years Insurance back gntee comes with an extra &500!!). Both teams have been subcontracting with the larger 'boys' (Town & Country, First Impression etc.) for over 10 years.
My next step is to see more of their work (in each case) and take a decision based on quality of work/price.
Any other factors to consider?
On reflection, will avoid the soakaway and will insist on an accodrain (?) from retaing wall back to the main gutters. By the way, is it okay to pipe (underground) the rain water from the patio/driveway to燼 manhole? They tell me that they'd ensure the smell would not 'leak' out with the connections via the accodrain!
I think the rain water is chanelled into a gulley which may then be connected to the main FW (but not sure).
Also, one other question on the PIC; it was suggested that if the base under my existing tarmac (on the driveway) is sound, then they would not add any further sub-base (MOT type 1). Furthermore, when asked what difference this might make to the price (because there is less digging and reduced cost for sub-base), I was told it doesn't change the price. So, firstly, should I insist on a 'fresh' sub-base regardless and second, is it right that the quote would not change if the job turns out to be easier and requires less materials?
Thanks again,
John8 October 2002
I'd recommend streetprint pavement texturing,check my old posting at other pavings,contact
for your nearest contractor and
for specs.
Tony McCormack13 October 2002
Sorry for t I've been away for a few days.
With regard to the drainage issue - if the linear drain (ACO or other type) is to be connected to the existing sewers system, then it should be connected to the SW system, if at all possible. If this is not feasible, or it is a combined system, then the connection must be 'trapped' to prevent odours escaping from the Foul System.
Secondly, the re-use of existing sub-base. If it's sound, there's no point in replacing it - if it ain't broke, don't fix it! However, it may need regulating, which involves re-levelling and topping up as required. I'm at a loss as to why the contractor claims it has no bearing on the job price. Excavation for and supply of a suitable sub-base layer represents a major part of the cost of any pavement installation. So, while I would not insist on a new sub-base (unless the existing proves to be totally unsuitable) I would insist on a price reduction if no sub-base is installed.
Have you checked out their references yet?
Bark Chippings - Keeley Stone - 30 Jul 2002
Could any body tell me where I can buy in bulk some decent bark chippings, for a childrens play area.
Many thanks,Keeley
Tony McCormack - 30 Jul 2002
Whereabouts are you and what sort of quantity are you after?
Keeley Stone30 Jul 2002
I live in a small village called Whitley, which is between Selby and Doncaster and the amount would probly be a big truck load (not quite sure on size of the area will check)
Tony McCormack31 Jul 2002
I reckon Woodgrow are your best bet - they're based in Derbyshire, but supply all over the north of England in full loads.
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