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关于公路自行自行车车自行自行车架尺寸知识的集中贴
看本文之前先说几句：
玩车有点日子的人都知道需要根据自己的身高来进行架的选择。无非几点：1、材料；2、尺寸；3、配色；另外就是品牌的喜好等等。
本帖子转自小恶魔网站，对competitivelist网站的文章进行了翻译，原文作者：rolf_racing
本帖子为买公路之前对自行架的基本吧。不过也只能算是纸上谈兵，还是需要走很多弯路来实现，哈哈。
原帖地址：/topicdetail.php?f=316&t=1092513
原文为繁体，已经转为简体了。
今天在看到有人在询问关于Fit Calculator不同模式的解说,想说刚好最近有爬过相关的文章,这篇文章有些内如其实并不是很容易懂,如果没有正确的了解这些设定真正的目的,那么量身设定的意义就有点被枉费了,所以不才今天花了点时间,将相关介绍简单的翻译成中文贴出来与大家分享,有错误还请指正喔~
/pdf/fit_details.pdf
注：以下为competitivelist网站的原文：
Each of the three styles of fit can be achieved on the same model bicycle, though perhaps not the same size or parts set up. Knowing how you want to ride will help determine what you want to ride.
1. The Competitive Fit.
It's called the Competitive Fit because it's our signature fit. We've found that this is the look and the feel that most of our customers expect out of their new bike. This is the most &aggressive& fit and suits those with an interest in racing, fast club riding, as well as those with a greater measure of body flexibility to work within the racer's comfort zones. Most modern road bikes, like the majority we offer at Competitive Cyclist, are usually pictured in sales catalogues with the Competitive Fit. But this doesn't mean that you should ride a bike that looks or fits like this.
Wanna look like a pro? This is the fit. It features a low, aerodynamic bar position that places slightly more weight on the hands than on the pedals and saddle, a close knee to pedal spindle ratio that emphasizes power and efficiency, and it puts the rider low in the handlebar drops. Typically the frame
will be the smallest that is appropriate. In fact, since the heyday of mountain bikes in the 1990s and more recent studies of professionals looking for an aerodynamic advantage, the Competitive Fit has become most bike shop's conventional wisdom.
After all, who doesn't want to look and ride like a pro? This fit is easy to sell but may not work for you since it actually best suits those who are willing to accept its clear emphasis on speed over comfort. For most of us, the pure Competitive Fit is too extreme even if it is still viable for young riders and racers, for those who love shorter, faster rides, and for those who just find this comfortable. Expect to be rather low even on the tops of the bars where you will spend the majority of your cruising time on the brake hoods, expect too to be lifting your neck slightly to see ahead of you with a rather &short and deep& reach into the bars as you push back on the saddle to stretch out.
The Competitive Fit creates a more compact body position with the chest low and the back as flat as is necessary to get down into the drops. The saddle to handlebar drop is sometimes as much 10cm or more.
2. The Eddy Fit.
Lots of folks find the Competitive Fit to be ideal. But for those who find its aerodynamic emphasis to be overly aggressive and uncomfortable, the Eddy Fit is almost certain to be ideal for you. It's a position that reminds us of the way Eddy Merckx looked on his bike in the early 1970s, and it dates from well before Eddy's time and continued in the pro peloton well into the 1980s.
There is nothing &dated& about this style of riding. We all know that Eddy, Bernard, and Guiseppe were all very, very fast riders! Bike design has not, in fact, changed that radically since their time---only the look, the fashion, and the style of riding. The Eddy Fit is simply no longer the &fashion& among pros who keep pressing the envelope of comfort to create more efficiency and power.
The Eddy Fit emphasizes less saddle to bar drop. You will notice less exposed seat post on traditional frames and a lower saddle to bar ratio on all fits, including compact designs. Typically it requires a size up of about 2-3cm in frame size from what is today usually offered by in current aero professional look of today. But make no mistake about it, this fit will get you down the road with speed, efficiency, and power.
A few differences from the Competitive Fit in addition to a taller front end and less saddle/bar drop is a less craned neck and easier forward-looking position, slightly less weight on the hands and more on the saddle and pedals, and a knee position that usually moves a bit behind the spindle (rather than a knee-over-the-spindle position, thus adding a bit of power). Bikes set up for the Eddy Fit change their look only subtly in comparison to the Competitive Fit though the results are dramatic in terms of greater comfort. This fit is easier on the neck and shoulders but no less suited for racing or fast solo or club riding.
We adjust this fit by &sizing up& the frame and adjusting the stem lengths to create proper balance, proportion, and to maximize the frame's potential. This position lets you into the drops with less stress on the neck and back and so encourages you to go low into the bars for longer periods. The Eddy Fit typically features a saddle/bar drop of only a few centimeters.
3. The French Fit.
This fit is so named because of its legacy in the traditions of endurance road riding such as brevet rides and randonneuring. However, the French Fit isn't merely about touring, riding long, or even sitting more upright. It is about getting the most out of a bike that fits larger and provides much more comfort to the neck, back, and saddle position.
While the Competitive Fit generally puts you on the smallest appropriate frame and the Eddy Fit sizes up a bit or raises the bars, the French Fit puts you on the largest appropriate frame. While this bucks some current conventional wisdom - and is, in fact, the least commonly used position of the three we espouse - it is still the position advocated by some of cycling's wisest and most experienced designers, who also happened to be riders who like to go fast and far with an ideal amount of comfort.
This fit features a taller front end (with a larger frame and/or head tube extension and stem), handlebar to saddle drops that are much closer to level, and favors riders who are looking to ease stress on the neck and back, ride as long and as far as they like, and are not concerned with the looking like an aggressive professional. In comparison to the Eddy Fit, the rider has even more weight rearward and a slightly more upright position such that &hands in the drops position& is close to the Competitive Fit's &hands on the hoods position.& Some may say that this was not how modern race bikes were &meant& to fit but we have learned that the French Fit's size up tradition works great on the most modern bikes.
By increasing the frame size we raise the bars without radical riser stems and still create balance and proportion with respect to the important knee-to-pedal dynamic. It is important to remember that as frames get larger the top tube effectively shortens. This means that the longer top tube on a larger frame is appropriate because as the bars come &up& and the ratio of saddle to bar drop ls, the rider achieves a &reach& from the saddle to the handlebars that is just right!
We recommend this fit for riders who really want to be comfortable and fast over longer distances. Please note that the French Fit disregards all emphasis on stand over height (standing with the bike between your legs and your shoes flat on the ground) because the French Fit school believes that this measurement has little actual value regarding fit. An ideal compromise for those who can't shed their concern regarding stand over height is the choice of a &sized up& compact design to achieve a higher relative handlebar position.
Nevertheless, a French Fit can work with traditional, non-sloping frames as well. As an example, a person who might ride a 55cm or 56cm frame to achieve the Competitive Fit, might ride as much as a 59cm or 60cm in the French Fit. While bikes in the French Fit are not the racer's fashion they tend to look elegant, well proportioned, and ride like a dream.
注：以下为rolf_racing的翻译：
我以口语方式我简单的翻译一下而已,不是全照原文撰写喔:
这三种不同风格的量身都可以符合市面上某些款式的,但不完全要按照一样的规格去设定,而是要知道你要的是怎样的骑乘感,他们可以帮助你完成你要的骑乘感。
1.竞技设定:
之所以叫做竞技设定是因为这是我们建议的设定,我们发现我们的客户出的辆大多是这样做,它有十足的攻击性,很适合竞赛与俱乐部联赛,经测量它有很好的身体伸展量,并且可在这个区域找到骑士的舒适区,多数的现代的自行車,就像我们销售的竞赛用都是这样做,并且在销售目录上的图片也是使用这样的量身法去设定,但是这并不代表你骑的就必须要像这样设定。
想要看起来像专业骑士,就是这样设定,特色就是低骑姿,计时把般的骑姿可以将更多的体重放到手上,膝盖与踏板的比例强调出力与效率,它能够促使骑士去使用下把位,架也是建议选择稍小的尺寸,事实上,在90年代登山车顶盛时期与近代的言教报告都把关键点放在空气力学的优势上,所以竞技设定已成为多数店使用的方法。
这样看来,谁不希望自己看起来与骑起来像个专业骑士?所以这样设定的最好卖,但不一定适合你,因为它适合那些重视速度大过于舒适度的人。对大多数人来说,纯粹的竞技设定过于极端,即使它对于年轻的骑士与职业车手而言是可最有可行性的，對于那些喜爱短程，快速骑乘的人，并为那些人就会觉得这个设定很舒適。若你是期望就算在上把位骑姿也是很低的人,与大部分的巡航骑乘时间都握在煞变把上的人,当然你也需要有心理准备你要一直举高你的脖子来看路,而在这个设定中,选择短而深(reach)的把型(我个人认为像的新型小燕把就符合这个要求)将有助于你推把转跨的动作(这个动作对于高落差设定的来说真的很重要喔)。
競技设定的骑姿紧凑,胸部与背部必须放平,所以高落差是必须的。坐椅到把手的落差，有时高达10厘米以上。
2.Eddy的设定
很多人觉得竞技设定很理想。但是，对于竞技设定过于强調空气动力学与过于攻击性和不舒适感感到不适应,那么Eddy的设定就是他们的理想选择。这个设定是Eddy Marckx对于车辆设定的看法，这位好手称霸公路赛事的时间长达70年代到80年代之久(也是我喜欢的手之一)。
在这股Eddy的风格里,时间的流逝似乎是不存在的。我们都知道Eddy, Bernard, and Guiseppe 都是非常，非常快的选手(何只快,应该是伟大)！在他们的时代里彻底的改变了一切---不仅是看起来,也连带那时代的潮流与骑士的骑乘风格都深受他的影响。Eddy的设定原则其实很简单,怎么样创造出舒适兼具良好的出力与效率。
Eddy的设定强调减少落差,你会发现在标准架(包含压缩架)上,落差较小,一般来说这个设定会要求你选择比标准大上2-3公分的自行架,但是以今日注重空气力学的角度来看,这样的设定无疑会减低你的速度,效率与出力。
与竞技设定相比有几点不同,较低的落差与较舒适的颈部角度,且可将较多的体重比例分配给坐椅与踏板,以及膝盖位置通常都会比踏板轴心位置后退一点点（而不是膝盖超过踏板轴心,为了增加一点力量) 。竞技设定与Eddy设定相比较,结果会有微妙的转变,更舒适。与颈部和肩部比较容易适应，但不适合竞赛与计时赛或俱乐部联赛。
我们这里调整的基础是以“尺寸稍大”的自行架为准，在去调整龙头长度以达到最适当的平衡与比例，并合理的状况下选择最大限度的自行架。这一立场下，您可以有较少的落差与减少颈部和背部的伸展，并且鼓励你使用低把位长时间骑乘。Eddy设定适合一般骑乘,坐椅/把手的落差只有少许几公分。
3.法式设定
这个设定命名是因为它深受公路耐力赛,如brevet rides与randonneuring,不过,法是设定不仅是有关旅行骑乘,长乘骑乘,甚至骑乘很长程的直线路程。这个设定是以限度内能获得最大的自行架为主要立场，可以提供更更舒适的颈部,背部,及坐姿。
虽然竞技设定在正常范围选择最小的自行架而Eddy设定则稍微加大了尺寸与提高了上把位，法式设定在让正常范围内选择最大的自行架。虽然这是传统观念的传承-事实上，却也是我们主张的三个设定方法中最不常用的设定-但是它仍然是一些骑界最有经验与智慧的设計师所提倡的，希望骑士能够快速和长距离的骑乘中一个理想的舒适设定。
这适合具有高车頭(包含长或是就长的上管),把手与自行車的落差是非常接近水平的,有利于骑士寻找舒缓颈部和背部压力的姿势,这是长时间骑乘者喜欢的,而不是看起来有攻击性的职业选手骑姿。与Eddy設定比较起来,骑士的重心更为后移和稍微直立,在这个设定的下把位高度可能才指示竞技设定中的变把位高度而已 ”有些人可能会说,这不是现代的比赛中有意义的设定,但我们必须学习了解到,法式设定产生的传懂大尺寸在某些时候的实用性是超越最先进的比赛的。
增加架大小与提高把手且没有切短上管与减少垫片,才能维持正常的坐舱长度,膝盖到踏板的动态设定是很重要的。重点是要记住,随着架越来越大但坐舱长度仍然只能一样长。这意味着,不影响坐舱长度下的大架是正确的,因为可以使把手上升以减少落差,注意总座舱长度才识正确的观念。
这个设定是給想要舒适与超长程骑乘的骑士,但是请注意:法式设定是不管立管高度的(就是跨在立管上双脚着地那种姿势),因为法式设定学说认为这个数据影响很小,且可以用压缩架来解决这问题。
当然,法式设定也适用于传统水平架,举例来说,同一个人以竞技设定算出来需要骑乘55到56公分的自行架,换用法式设定可能须要换到59到60公分的自行架,当然法式设定不是为了界的时尚而生,但是他们确实是追求一种优雅,人車比例适当且如梦幻般的骑乘感受(还真是法式浪漫呢,干脆穿LANVIN西装背LV骑好了)。
呼~~手好酸喔~~终于完成了~~同步转贴于&请帮忙解读Fit Calculator&内~
转载请注明出处：/thread-.html
《车架尺寸的选择》——zhenning，来自骑行天下论坛
原帖地址：/thread-.html
测量时最好穿骑行服，站于水平硬性地面，并由一人辅助。身体直立，两脚间隔约十公分。用书本或其他类似的东西平置于裆部，并向上施加小于坐车座的适当力度，测量书本顶部至地面的距离：i! \3 J) R; I* n+ e3 _
# I- o$ v2 p) T/ o& I
姿势与步骤1相同，测量锁骨之间V字槽底部至书本上端的距离：t- L4 G' M; G2 n9 a1 `8 }0 W
% s1 [0 w( w$ K$ n
水平站立，平伸手臂、掌心向前，测量从虎口到肋骨所在平面的距离：a
M' c% ^4 v
0 d' m- b! }* o& f1 b9 \) p
直立，放松两臂，测量肩关节处的宽度: s9 y4 b& a0 G. @& ?
4 G/ t: y# i2 N3 t) P
以上尺寸每个测量三次，取平均值根据以上数据可以得到你所需要的车架尺寸：
& && &公路车架尺寸＝i*0.67（cm）
& && &山地车架尺寸＝(i*0.67-11.0)*0.394（英寸）6 @; J1 E4 i: P
3 M0 D% X. ~6 q
6 l, I0 b1 |1 q6 m3 F. d% v) L
把立长度＝[(t+a)/2+x]-et
& && &公路车x＝4；
& &&&山地x＝8；! }, L+ v5 b* x! H
& && &et＝effective top tube length（车架上管有效长度） 6 K9 D* d/ ?&&H0 _2 \
曲柄长度：腿长范围 （cm）& & 曲柄长度& &g& z3 O- X( [0 y
& && && && && &&&65cm - 70cm& & 165mm 3 G$ {) d4 F& O& h# v1 T* ~
& && && && && &&&71cm - 76cm& & 170mm
& && && && && &&&79cm - 81cm& & 172.5mm & J& S% S. L( p6 H
& && && && && &&&82cm - 90cm& & 175mm % H: Z$ s4 P8 t7 L- d
弯把宽度：（公路弯把的宽度是指中心至中心的长度）
& && && && && && && &&&肩宽范围s& &&&把 宽cm% M1 Z, C! d# g8 w, M/ A
& && && && && && && && && & 38cm& &&&38 - 40
& && && && && && && && && &39cm& &&&40 7 K: c% d3 J8 j# \
& && && && && && && && && & 40cm& &&&40
& && && && && && && && && & 41cm& &&&40 – 42& &{% ~- C+ J; M
& && && && && && && && && & 42cm& &&&42
& && && && && && && && && &43cm& &&&42 – 44 & i6 Q) a- s! q. y
& && && && && && && && && & 44cm& &&&44 ' P# E) Z: j& u% |3 ^5 H& j) y
& && && && && && && && && & 45cm& &&&44 ( [' F: R. k7 S/ A8 o
& && && && && && && && && & 46cm& &&&44 - 46
《身高自行车尺寸对照！（转）》——风之吻，来自骑行天下论坛
/thread-.html
自行车运动，最重要的器材莫过于您的坐骑自行车了
车架作为整个车子的主体，最大程度地决定影响了你骑行姿势的正确性和舒适性，所以选择一个合适的车架是至关重要的
我在Airborne网站上看到了度量身体个部位长度和计算车架尺寸的公式，供大家参考使用
1. 测量大腿长度
测量时最好穿骑行服，站于水平硬性地面，并由一人辅助身体直立，两脚间隔约十公分用书本或其他类似的东西平置于裆部，并向上施加小于坐车座的适当力度，测量书本顶部至地面的距离：
2. 测量身长
姿势与步骤1相同，测量锁骨之间V字槽底部至书本上端的距离
3. 测量臂长a
水平站立，平伸手臂掌心向前，测量从虎口到肋骨所在平面的距离
4. 测量肩宽直立，放松两臂，测量肩关节处的宽度
以上尺寸每个测量三次，取平均值
根据以上数据可以得到你所需要的车架尺寸：
公路车架尺寸＝i*0.67（cm）
山地车架尺寸＝(i*0.67-11.0)*0.394（英寸）
把立长度＝[(t+a)/2+x]-et
(g公路车x＝4；山地x＝8；et＝effective top tube length
你所适合的曲柄长度：腿长范围 （cm）& && &曲柄长度
& && && && &65cm - 70cm& && &&&165mm
& && && && &71cm - 76cm& && &&&170mm
& && && && &79cm - 81cm& && &&&172.5mm
& && && && &82cm - 90cm& && &&&175mm
{弯把宽度：（弯把的宽度是指中心至中心的长度）
肩宽范围s& && &&&把&&宽cm
38cm& && && && &&&38 40
39cm& && && && && & 40
40cm& && && && && & 40
41cm& && && && &&&40 42
42cm& && && && && & 42
43cm& && && && &&&42 44
以上比较专业————————繁琐
懒得用公式计算,直观一点
闲人达法：车架与身高尺寸的基本对照
美利达（车架） Merida
14寸:160CM以下
16寸:160-175CM
18寸:170-185CM
20寸:185CM以上
环球（车架） UCC
15寸:160CM以下
17寸:165-180CM
19寸:173-185CM
21寸:185CM以上
以上数据仅供参考
选车时还要看具体情况，因车、因人而异，还有购车的用途，最好亲自试骑一下、认真考量
总结归纳的不错，很透彻！
感谢辛勤劳动！