The Missing World 新西兰掠影
今年上半年自己去新西兰旅行了一个月，纯净的空气、大气的风景无法用语言形容，一些图片与大家分享拼途网友回复：北岛Cape Reinga拼途网友回复：北岛90里长滩拼途网友回复：北岛PAIHA海钓成果拼途网友回复：全部成果拼途网友回复：北岛徒步Taopu瀑布拼途网友回复：乘直升机上FOX冰川拼途网友回复：QUEENSTOWN拼途网友回复：ARROWTOWN拼途网友回复：蹦极（爽极了）拼途网友回复：秋色拼途网友回复：TE ANAU拼途网友回复：MILFORD SOUND拼途网友回复：DOUBTFUL SOUND
IthasbeenalongtimeformeandmywifetodreamofhavingatravelinParis.Dreamsmaybecometruesometimebecauseeverydoghasitsday.Asummerjobearnedushundredsbulkswhichguaranteeactualizationofourdreamonafirmbasis.Althoughkindofexhaustedafterthreeweeks’burdensomephysicalwork,wewerepleasedtoplantomoveourassclumsilytoParis.I.Pre-TravelWenevertraveledtoasuperbigcityinEuropesincecominghere.TwobiggercitiesweeverbeenareBrusselsandAmsterdam,whichcannotbecomparedwithParis,oneofthebiggestcitiesintheworld.FortunatelymanyinternetsurferswhoeverbeentoParisornotprovideabundantinformationconcerningtravelinParis.Therewegotsufficientsupport.1.TransportationonthewayHereitdoesnotrefertothetransportationinParis,buttothetransportationtoParis.IcanonlygettwowaystoParis,trainandbus.Takingbusischeaper,halfpriceoftakingtrain.However,itcostsyoumoretime,tripletimesthantrain.Weighingtheprosandcons,consideringmywife’scarsicknesswegotlittlechoice.ThalyscandeliveryoutoParisinonehourandtwentyminutesatthepriceofabout100bulks.Yeah,itismoreexpensive,butitismorecomfortableandlesstime-consuming.2.AccommodationHereisanotherimportantmatterwhichshouldbedealtwithbeforetrip.Hereagain,everythingisontheinternet.Lookingupintotensoftourismwebsites,westoppedattheofficialwebsiteofParisTourismOffice.Itgaveusmorecredibility.Youshouldbeverycarefulwhenusingyourcreditcardandcreditcardisnecessaryforreservinghotel.AnotherissuewhichhastobetakenintoconsiderationisthatthiswebsiteprovidesChineselanguage.SoonlaterwefoundahotelclosetoLaffayette,fiveminuteswalkingawayfrommetro.Anditspriceofcontainingbreakfastattractedussomuch.Wealmosthadnohesitationtochooseit.Firsttimetousecreditcardstressedournerve.Butthephonecallonedayafterreservationrelaxedus.Anyway,cheatersofcreditcarddidnothaveachancetocloseus.3.TravelScheduleParisisahugecitywithhundredssightseeing,bigorsmall.ItisnotLeuvenwhereyoutourwithoutmap.Andyoucannotlookaroundallthesightseeingatonetime.Youhavetomakeachoicewhattoseeandwhatnot.Afour-dayplandidnotgiveustwomuchchoices.Themostfamoustourismsites,suchasLouvre,Eiffel,ArcdeTriumph,ParisOpera,PlacedeConcordeandseveralmuseums,werepreferredbeyondanydoubt.Anintensivetourschedulecameupalmostinnotime.ItwaskindofapitythatwehavetodigoutParisinonlyfourdays.Nevertheless,ifyoulookatitinanotherwaythatwouldnotbeasorrysinceourbodiescannotholdusforwalkingonemoreday.Lateryouwillseeourproof.4.TransportationinParisHerecameupanotherproblem.Aswesaidbefore,Parisisasuperhugecitywhereyoucannotalwayswalkfromheretothere.Publictransportationisnecessaryallthetime,forexamplefromrailwaystationtohotel,fromhoteltosightseeingandfromonesightseeingtoanother,whichisaproblemyoucanneveravoidinabigcity.Fortunatelyweonlygotlet’ssayfourchoices:weekpass,Parispass,daypassand10carnet.AfterhavingavirtualtouronthemapofParis,wefoundthatweonlyneed11tripsbymetroandinothertimeyouhavetowalkbyfootallthetimesincesightseeingisclosetoeachother.Welldone,10carnetisthemostefficientchoice.Moneyhastobespentinthemosteconomicwaywhichwastaughtbyaclasslastsemester.II.In-TravelUntilthenthetravelwaswellprepared.Itistimetopack,withdrawcashtypicalChinesewayandgetontheway.1.TheFirstDay19AugustThalysholdsastrictruleofcompulsoryreservation,whichmeansyoucannotmissyourtrainundernormalconditions.Wegotupveryearlyinthemorning,asearlyasthetimewegotupforwork.BeingafraidofmissingthetraininBrusselsZuid,wearrivedtherefortyminutesbeforedeparture.10minuteslaterwegotonboardand80minuteslaterwesetourfeetinGaredeNordParisNord.VisiblesignsofParismetro,whichIwillmentionlater,madeusnodifficultytoreachtheclosestoptoourhotel.Thenwastwoandahalfhourbeforecheckingintime.WekilledthattimeinParisOpera.ParisOperaistheoldestoperainFrance.Luxuriousdecorationisitscharacteristic.MoneymusthavecomefromtheindemnityofthetwoOpiumwars,aswasalwaysatwife’stongue.Thestrongestimpressionwasfromitsrestinghall.Itsfourwallsareoccupiedbyrelieves,paintingsandpendantlights.Twobigclocksfacetoeachotheratbothsidesofthehall.Theadorationofgoldishighlyembodiedinthishall.Asnapshotwouldblindyoureyes.MagnificentistheonlywordIcanimaginetodescribethishall.WhatcanIFrenchstyleofmagnificentandChinesewouldneverusethismodel.TwomuchlavishnesswouldholdChinesebreathandIwouldlosemyselfinsuchaplace.Waitingtimeforcheckinginwasusedoutquicklyinthisgreatopera.Thenwewentbacktocheckin.Itwasofsurprisethatthereceptiondidnotaskforanyinformationofus.Afterspeakingoutmyname,wegoteverythingtosettledown.Thatissodifferentfromhomeland.Wegotoffagainafteraquickbreak.ThenextdestinationwasLaffayette,themostfamousmarketplacefortouristsinParis.10minuteslatersteppingintoLaffayetteweimmediatelyfoundthebiggestgapbetweenmeandtheworld-famousbrands.Paris,thecapitaloffashion,doesnotbelongtous.Thenthisplacewasleftbehindbyuswithanonsensesigh.ThelastsightseeingtodaywasPompidouMuseum.Itisstrikingforitsstructureofsteelframeandglasswindows.IholdthesamefeelingasParispeoplebeforethatitisnotcompatiblewithParis.Thisisamuseumaccommodatingartofmodernismandpost-modernismofthewhole20century.ItssubjectsofexhibitionarechangedtwiceayearwhichisdifferentfromLouvrewhereyoualmostseethesameobjectseverytime.Whatever,modernism,orpost-modernismisawordofwhichIamsickallthetime.ThesimplereasonisthatIcannotunderstand.Allthesubjectsofartofmodernismarecomingfromkindofpowerfulmotivationofartistswhichisuncertaintothemselvesbeforeoraftercreation,evennottospeakofthethirdparties.Thecurrentthemeisvideomodernism.FrommyperspectivethistimeIsawthesilliestthingsintheworld,someofthemevenstupidinmyeyes.ThefunnystorywouldbethatIfallintosleepwhenseeingapictureshow.Yeah,comfortableseatssittingontheground,darksurroundingsandhypnoticmusicconstituteaperfectplaceforanap.Nothingtocomment,modernismmaybeanareaforgeniuspeopleratherforme.ThatisthepointIgotfromtheartsexhibitedbyPompidou.Well,today’stripendedhere.Onthewaybacktometrostation,wemadeaquicklookatHoteldeVillaCityHallofParisandNortreDame,thoughtheyareonthefourthdayschedule.2.TheSecondDay20AugustThisdaywasthemostexhaustingday.WehadanintensivescheduleforArcofTriumph,Champ-Elysees,PetitPalace,BridgeofAleixandreIII,PlacedeConcorde,JardindesTuileries,MuseumOrsay,PlacedesInvalidesandTourEiffel.Asyoucansee,itwasindeedalongwayandyougotnochoicetomissanyofthem.Gettingupwasfollowedbybreakfast.AfterthatweappearedbeforeArcdeTriomphe.BuiltbyNapoleoncelebratinghisremarkableandlegendarysuccess,ArcofTriumphbecameasymbolofFrance.Althoughitsheightof51metersis15metershigherthanTiananmen,itssizecanneverbecomparedwithTiananmen.Thetwoarchitecturesrepresentthehugeculturaldifferencebetweeneastandwest.Thetickettookmesteppingintosuchtwohundredwhirlstairs.StandingatthetopofArcofTriumphyoulookdownthewholewesternParisincludingallthesightseeingIwillgotoday.TheamusedstorywasthatmyladyboughtasilverpendantofEiffelratherthanArcofTriumph.ThenwesteppedintoAvenueofChamp-Elysees,themostfashionablestreetfortourists.Sincefashionisneverbeingmyconcernbecauseoflackofmoney,Champ-Elyseesturnedintoawalkingstreettothenextstopforus.WewalkedstraightuntiltheappearanceofGrandPalaceandPetitPalace.GrandPalaceisnotvisitable.Fortunatelyitfrontgateisavailablefortakingpictures.AleixandreIIIBridgeislocatedbesidethetwopalaces.TurningbackfromAleixandreIIIBridge,wetookapicturewiththestatuteofChurchillinthefrontofPetitPalace.PetitPalacehasbeenanartmuseumfreeofcharge.Therewasnospecialmemoryforthismuseumexceptonestatue.Itisamarblestatueofabeautifulgirl.Sheislyingdownandseemstobesleeping.Herbodyisshiningunderthesunlightandhersmoothbodycurveisperfect.Icouldseearealsleepingbeauty,whichwasthefirstheartquakebyartwhenIwasinParis.WalkingoutofPetitPalacewithpainfulfeet,wereachedPlacedeConcorde.Therewasnothingspecialbutofastolepolewithagoldenpyramid.Onlyoneoftwofountainswasworking.Nevertheless,itstoppedfountainingwhenwegotclose.ForwardseveralstepsweenteredJardindesTuileries.Theforegonebeautifulandluxurious,Ibet,royalgardenhasbeendisappearedlonglikeYuanmingyuan.Atthismomentitlooksmorelikearelicthanagarden.AfterJardindesTuileriesisLouvre.Buttodayisnothertimeandsowepasseditaway.Crossingtheriverandtakingtheleft,wewereapproachingMuseumOrsay.ThelargeclockonitsfrontwallagainsttheSeineindicatesitsformerfunction,Parisrailwaystation.Therewasnodoubtthathundredsoftouristshavebeengatheredthereforaccess.Intheprocessofaccesswefeltalitofterrorismsinceeverytouristhadtoopenherbagforexamination.HoldingthebadexperienceatPompidouIwaspleasedofthesocalledclassicalartinOrsay.Alotoffamiliarartworksandartistscameupbeforemyeyes.TheartistsareVanHough,Monet,andRodin.Hereshefoundherfavoriteformofart,neo-impressionismwhichwasjokedasdotscombinationbyme.Wewereenjoyingwanderingthereuntilitwasclosed.ThetimespentinOrsaywassolongthatwehadnotimetovisitPlacedesInvalidestheclosetimeofwhichisaround6pm.Ithadbeenclosedfor20minuteswhenwegotitstickettable.Itwasofpitythatweonlytookseveralpicturesfromoutside.PainfullegsmadeusnottomoveanymoreandrelaxationinthegardenofPlacedesInvalideswasinterruptedbythegardener.ThenwedecidedtostepforwardtoTourEiffel.WethoughtwecouldfindaMacDonald’sorQuickforabreak.WeperceivedtheimpossibilityofthisidealaterwhenwesawEiffelwasbiggerandbigger.StandingatthefootofEiffelwewerebesidethousandsoftourists,whichwasasituationI’veneverseensinceIleftfromChina.Afteralmostonehourwewerepushedtotheticketservice.However,asighthatyounormallyhavetowaitforhalfanhourfromthislinedisappointedmesomuch.Atthemeantimeanothermiserywasthattheticketfortopfloorwasclosedfornoreason.Itmeanteitherwegotnochancetothetopfloororwecouldbuysuchticketatsecondfloor.Ok,wearebeingatthefootofEiffelandevensettingafootonitisnotabadchoice.Thetopfloorisnotsoimportant.Welinedupatthesecondfloorassoonaspossiblewhenwegotouttheelevator.Itwasindeedahardtimetolineupforthetopfloor.Itwasalmostonehourthatwespentontheline.ThreehourslatersincewequeueduponthegroundwefinallystoodonthetopofEiffel.HereyoucoulduseyoureyestotoucheverypointofParis.IsawthelongandexhaustingwaywewalkedforthewholedaybeginningfromArcofTriumphtoEiffel.ThatwasanexpeditionandImadeit.ThatisthepointIgotfromTowerEiffeltheimportanceofwhichisnolessthantheLongMarch.3.TheThirdDay21AugustAfteratiringdaytripwewerebothexhaustedsothatwakingupwasat10am.WewereonthewaytoLouvrestillwiththefatiguefromyesterday.Hereisoneofthemostfamousartmuseumsintheworld.Asisalwayssaidthatamateurwantstobeprofessionalallthetime,werentanaudioguidehopingforafurtherunderstandingofLouvre.Knowingthatwecouldnotvisitthewholemuseuminsixhours,wewentstraighttoMonaLisa.Thisroomwascrowdedandthereisabaratthefrontofthepaintingwhichstopsadultguys’comingcloser.StandingbehindthebarthenIbeganalessclosecontactwiththismysteriouswoman.Thispainingistoofamoustobeunknown.TakingthenovelandtherecentmovieofTheDaVinciCodeintoconsideration,noonewoulddenyitisthemostfamouspaintinginhistory.Tomeitisnotthepaintingitselfbutthestorybehindthispaintingthatcaughtmyheart.Itssmallsizedidnotdisappointmeatall,atleastnotasmuchasthatofthepissingboydidtomeinBrussels.Iwassickofthattoocrowdedroomafterawhile.Soweleft.ThenextstopshouldhavebeenthestatueofVenus.However,facingaseaofpaintingsurroundedwechangedourstrategyanddecidedtoviewoilpaintingsfirst.Thingsareoutofplanalways.AftercarefullyviewinghundredsofpaintingwefoundthatitwasimpossibletogoaroundLouvreatsuchspeed.Therefore,ourstrategywaschangedagain.Wechosetoseeonlythepaintingsontheaudioguide.Evenactinglikethatwecannotgiveanypaintingtoomuchtime.Thereasonwasverysimplethatthereweretoomanyfamouspaintings.Hereagainreschedulehappenedthatpaintingsandnototherswerethefirstchoice.Fourorfivehourslater,wehadscannedalltheimportantpaintingsfromwhateverearlycenturiesuntil19thcentury,fromItalytoFrance,fromFrancetoSpain,fromSpaintoGermany,fromGermanytoNetherlandsandFlanders.Thatwasanextraordinaryexperience.Paintingtimewasoverandvisitingtimewasclosetoover.WehadtoflytothestatueofVenuswhichwasanobjectyoucouldnotmissinLouvre.Wewalkedveryfastuntilseeingagroupofpeoplegatheringbeforeadoor.InsideisVenus.Ihavetoadmitthatarealstatuecouldshowusmorethanitspictureonthebooksdoes.Herbeautyisundescribableasyoucanneverexplainwhyyoufallintolovewithyourlover.Whentalkingaboutpaintings,Chineseareasgoodaswesternbecauseofdifferentstyles.Nevertheless,concerningstatuefrommyperspectiveChinesecannotbecomparedwithwestern.NexttoVenusinanotherroom,wesawMichelangelo,ofcourseitishisworkofSlaveries.ItisdefinitelynotthesymbolicworkofMichelangelo.Ididnotgettoomuchfeelingfromit.NeitherdidRaffaello.AnywayLouvredoesnotowneverything.Hearingfromtheradiothatvisitingtimeisover,wehadtoleavewitharegretnotviewingalltheartworks.ThenextwasSacre-CoeruBasilica,anothersymbolofParis.ItislocatedonthetopofButteMontmartre,thepeakofParis.HereyoucanseethedistinctstylesofByzantine.Domesareusedmoreoftenunderthisstyle.Insideyoucanseeamosaicintheapse,entitledChristinMajesty,themostclassicexpressionofTrinityinFrenchway.Inaddition,thebasilicacomplexincludesagardenformeditation,withafountain,whichisasiteIsuggestyoumustgo.Anotherthingwasthatwebegantocollectmemorialcoinsofsightseeingfromhere.ItwasnotverylateafterthevisitofScare-CoeruBasilica.SowegottimetohavealookatMoulinRougeRedWindmill.ThehomonymousmovietakesthefameofthisplacetotheworldwhichturnsMoulinRougeintoanotherplaceinParisyoucannotmiss.Frighteningofitshighvalueofticketweonlygotachancetoseetheredwindmillonitsroof.Sodidalotofothertourists.Itwasthelasttoursitebeforesleep.4.TheLastDay22AugustThefirstthingwastocheckoutandtakeourluggagetoParisNordforstore.Itdidtakealongtimetofindthestoreplaceinstationbecauseoftheunclearsign.Anywaywemadeitfinally.TakingmetrotoBastille,weseteyesonthecelebratedplace.TheprisonhasbeenfallenintoruininFrenchRevolution.Amemorialandanoperaweresetuptoreplacetheformerprison.Alotofstorieswererecalledbythisplace.ThisfirstofcoursewasLesMiserables.SowecametoMaisondeVictorHugo.ItwastheresidenceofVictorHugoandisamuseumofHugonow.Youcanimaginewhatwesawhere,somethingnotimportant.However,onethingwhichhastobementionedhereisthatoneofroomsisfurnituredinChinesestyle.PleasedonotaskmewhysinceIdonotknoweither.MaybeitmeansChineseinfluenceinParisin19thcentury.Herewegotoursecondmemorialcoin.NortreDamecameupagain.ThelonglinetothebelltowerdiscouragedustofollowthestepsofQuasimodo.Thenweenteredthiscathedral.Itperhapsisoneofthemostfamouscathedralintheworldandthemostfamousoneforthefolk.ItisatypicalGothicarchitecturewithflyingbuttress.Itsstainedglassesshowtheheaveinfluenceofnaturalism.Besides,alotofrelicsarereservedthereandsomeofthemareevenfirst-classrelics.Nevertheless,donotexpecttoseeHolyRelichere.TheyarefromSaintsratherthanJesus.AftergettingenoughCatholicenlightenment,wewereheadingtoHotelduPantheon.ItisknownoftheburialplaceofmanyVIPs,suchasRousseau,Voltaire,Hugo,Mr.andMrs.Curieandsoon.IwashighlyexcitedthatIwouldseethemostrespectablephilosopherinhistoryfrommyperspective,Rousseau.IalmostreadallhisliteratureofwhichDiscourseontheBasisandOriginofInequalityofMenandTheSocialContractaremyfavoriteever.Istoodbeforehiscoffinforalongtimemeditatinghisimmortalideaandhislegendarypast.Picturesweretakenaroundhissleepingplacefromeveryangle.SometimesIevenperceivedanideathatIcametoParisonlyforhim.Yeah,havingreadinghisworkformorethan10yearsmadehimbeafriendalready.Theonlypityiswecouldnotbeborncontemporarilysothatitisofimpossibilitytoseehimfacetoface.Hisbrilliantargumentswere,areandwillbeshininginmyheart,paredwithRousseau,Ispentlesstimeonapproachingothercelebrities.BeingreluctanttopartwithHotelduPantheon,wesetourtargetonJardindeLuxembourg.Bathingintherareafternoonsunlightwehadanicebreakthere.ThenwehadaquickdinnerinQuick.Thelastdestination,tourcruise,wascoming.Onehourrivertripwasmorethanasummaryofthepassedfourdays.Werevisitedeveryplacewehadbeenfromadifferentangle.AndtheimpressionofParisstoppedtherealso.III.Post-TripThalystookusbacktoBrusselsMidiandbyachangetrainwecamebackinLeuvenatmidnight.Busservicehadstoppedoperationforlong.Sowehadnothingtodobutwalkhome.LeuvenwasnicerthanParis.Itisquietersincetherearenotoomanytourists.Therearenotoomanycarsonthestreetsoyoucancrossthestreetinanyplaceatanytime.Adifferentlifeiswaitingforme.P.S.:Picturearereferredtohttp:smilemuer.||::safa看起来有点像论文的格式:gg||::pass||天哪,看英文好累哦!::sad||:cry:::pass||阅读理解啊,不过真的不错::lf||阅读理解啊,不过真的不错::lf
TwoAgainsttheCloudsDiaryofourtwo-personexpeditiontoMinyaKonkaGonggaShan,7556m,Sichuan,China08April-20May2001ClaudiaB?umlerandHartmutBielefeldtExpeditionDiaryAuthor:HartmutBielefeldtSource:http:www.bielefeldt.demke.htmContents1.Preface2.Frankfurt-Bejing-Chengdu3.Chengdu-Kangding-Liubabycar4.TrekkingfromLiubatothebasecamp5.atMinyaKonka6.TrekkingbacktoZivilisation7.DriveLiuba-Chengdu8.Chengdu9.Beijing[Preface]Whyapreface?Well,maybebecauseyouneverheardaboutthismountain.That'snoshame,indeed.Neverthelessitisoneoftheverybigones.Withanaltitudeof7556mitrisesupfareastofallotherhighmountainsintheChineseprovinceSichuan.InmostoverviewmapsofAsia,twomountainsareincluded:MountEverestandMinyaKonka.Goodreasonstohaveacloserlookatthismountain.Sinceitsfirstclimbin1932,onlyfiveexpeditionshavereachedthesummit.Until2001,only18personsstoodontop.Inspring2001,weattempttheseventhclimbofthismountain.We,thisisatwo-personexpedition,consistingofClaudiaB?umlerandHartmutBielefeldtfromFrickingen-LeustettennearLakeofConstance,Germany.Therestofthispageconsistsofourexpeditiondiary.||Part1:Frankfurt-Beijing-ChengduSunday,08April2001Monday,09April2001Frankfurt-BeijingOurflightFrankfurt-BeijingstartsonSundayeveningat21:15withmorethananhourofdelay-duetooverbooking.Afteramoreorlessrestfulnightwearelandingat12:30inBeijingPeking.Customsformalitiesarequicklydone,butverysoberingistheEnglishknowledgethateventheairportpersonnelshows.Howshouldthatbeintheprovincefaraway?Fortunately,weshouldhaveourinterpreterforthesethingsthen.Thankstotheinternetprintout,thehotelisquicklyfound.Sincewehavetoleaveearlytomorrow,wechoseahotelneartheairport.Wetaketheairportbustogodowntownforsightseeing,thisisdefinitelycheaperthanataxi.Alongthemainstreetsinthecityweseemostlyhuge,cleanhotelandcompanybuildings,mostofthemnewlybuilt,everythingverytidy.Wedon'tstaylongatTiananmen,becauseitisrathercoldwithpouringrain.Finallyasupermarketisfound,wecancompletepartofoursupplies.Supperismoreproblematic,thereishardlyanyforeignrestaurant,andreadingaChinesemenuisbeyondourskillsatthistime.Therefore,forthiseveningwehaveasoupkichenwithpicturesofthedishes.Itisnottooeasytogetbacktothehotel.Nosuccesswiththefirsttaxi,eitherhecannotreadtheprintoutorhedoesn'tknowthehotel.Thesecond-moreexpensive1-taxifinallybringsushome.1InBeijingtherearethreeclassesoftaxis,1.20,1.60,and2.00Yuanperkilometer.8Yuanareabout1US$.Tuesday,10April2001Beijing-ChengduTheEuropeanStyleBreakfastisbasicallyrestrictedtothefactthatpeoplewhodon'treallylikeasoy-noodle-soupincanfindsomekindofcookies.AfterathreehourflightwearriveatChengdu,immediatelybeingwelcomedbyourliaisonofficerMrs.ChengandinterpreterTori.Fromhereon,theSMASichuanMountaineeringAssociationwilltakecareofus.Withabout3millioninhabitants,Chengduisratherlarge.The3millionisthecityarea,theofficialcommunityofChengducounts10millions.AsinmostotherlargerChinesecities,thereisnosubway,andpeopleareonthewaybybus,car,taxi,orbicycle.Thejammedstreetsareonething,theChinesedrivingstyleisanother-basedonthemainphilosophy:pushasfarasyoucanget.Theintentiontoturnoffcanonlyberealizedbydecidedlyrushingforwardandthereforeleavingnomorespacetotheoncomingtraffic,thereforethelatterhastostop.Anythinglikeflowingtrafficisquiteseldominthecity.AsinBeijing,therearewidebicyclelanes.Atcrossroads,pedestriansshouldbeextremelycareful:Thecarsmayturnrightalsoatredlightsshowingnoforesightatallorevensomethinglikearespectfulstyleofdriving.Therefore,agreenlightdoesn'tmeanthatapedestrianwouldreachtheothersideofthestreetwithanacceptablerisk.ChengduisgenerallynotastidyasBeijing,sinceithasn'tbeensomuchinvolvedintotheconstructionsurgeasBeijing.Beijingwasespeciallysprucedupforthe50thanniversaryofthenation'sfoundationin1999.Wednesday,11April2001ChengduTheTibetHoteloffersamuchmoreabundantbreakfastchoicetotheEuropeantravelerthantheBeijingAirportGarden.ThismorningwearedoingtheshoppinginthesupermarketCarrefour,wherewestockupontheneededsuppliesfortheexpedition.AlthoughitisaFrenchsupermarketchain,therangeofitemsisverymuchorientedtotheChinesemarket.Forexample,cheeseisavailableonlyasveryexpensiveimporteditems.NowwehavetofetchthecargothatwehadsenttoChengdulastweek.Itcontainsoftwoplasticbarrelscontainingropes,equipment,andfoodsupplies,altogether50kg.ThefreightcompanydemandsafeeofY450Gebühren-itremainsunclearifthisismainlytheirhandlingfee,thestoragefees,orcustoms.Sincewewereneededpersonallytofetchthebarrels,thevisitatCarrefourwasabithectic.UnfortunatelywedonotsucceedinfindingagainthesupermarketwithoutourChineseescort.NowasourChinesehostshavegotanideaaboutourpreferences,therestaurantfoodistastyandnottoospicy-almostalwaystherearealternativestothelocalSichuanfoodwhichisextremelyspicy.||Part2:Chengdu-Kangding-LiubaThursday,12April2001Chengdu-KangdingOntimeateighto'clockourtwoladiesandthetwodriversandtheirvehiclespickusup.UntilYa'an130kmthereisanexcellent,obthefollowing100kmtoErlangShan,theroadispavedandwidebutverytwistingthroughanarrowvalley.Thevalleybaseisalmostcompletelycoverdbythescreeoftheriver.ErlangShanispassedbya4.2kmlongtunnel,itsinteriorfittingsnotyetbeingcompleted,butanywayalreadyinservice.Afteronceagainlotsofcurvesbehindendlessmilitaryconvoysonasomewhatbumpyroad,wereachKangdingat4p.m.,situatedat2500minthenarrowvalleyonbothsidesoftheriver.ThetownmarkstheborderbetweenthetraditionallyChinesemainpartofSichuanprovinceandthewestwhichismoreinfluencedbyTibetanculture.TotherealTibet,however,therewouldstillbeseveralhundredkilometerstogo.Herewefindamarketwherewecanbuyamongstotherthingscanistesforthefuelforourstove.ThehotelKangdingseemstobeasnewasexpresswayandtunnel.Forourexpectations,itisalmostabittoocomfortable.Astonishingly,notfarfromthehotelthereisasmallbakerywithexcellentcreamcakesandSwissrolls.KangdingFriday,13April2001Kangding-LiubaAfterbreakfastTibetanstyletodayweascendagaininbetweenalotofmilitarytruckstoa4298mhighpass.Freshsnowbesidetheroad.Afterabout50kmweleavethepavedroad-nowitreallygetsbumpy.FromtheopenhighlandswhichremindverymuchofTibetwetraveldownwardsthroughgreen,soondenselyforestedvalleysandgorges.Latertheroadgoesupaverynarrowsidevalleyontheleft-handside.Roadconditevenwhenthevalleyopensagainfurtherup,thereisonlyslowprogress,especiallybeyondLiubamainvillage.Sincethereissomedoubtaboutourdestination,aone-hourdetourisaddded,untilouraccomodationforthisnightisfound,aTibetanfarmhouse.AltoughthevalleyisculturallymostlyinfluencedbyTibetans,alsomanyChineselivehere.paredtoTibetwherewewerein1999,themoreabundantvegetationseemstocontributetoabetterwealthhere.Atanaltitudeof3800mtherearetreesandfirewood.Thehousewherewestayforthenightisalargestonebuilding,theliving-andeating-roomskilfullydecoratedwithwoodencarvings.Thereisevenastove.Fordinner,wefirsthave-Tibetan-saltedtea,tsampa,andpotatoes,latertakenfromKanging,thereforeChinesenoodles.||Part3:TrekkingfromLiubatothebasecampSaturday,14April2001Liuba-ZimeiLa-ZimeiAteightinthemorning,thetwojeepsleavebackforChengdu.We,i.e.ourtwoladiesandthetwoofus,setofftoZimeiwithacaravanof11horsesandtheirdrovers.Followingagoodpath,wesoonreachthevalleythatwasfoundyesterdayonlyinthesecondattempt.Itrisesonlyslowly,beingcoveredwithbushesandsometrees.Thelastslopeissteeperandsnowy,sotheascentbecomesslowandtiringthere.NotforourChineseescortwhomakemostofthewayonhorseback.Afterfourfours,theZimeLa,4560m,isreached.TheviewtoMinyaKonkaisalreadyobscuredbymanycloudsonthisearlyafternoon.Ontheotherside,thetrailsteeplydescends,soonfreeofsnow.Thecaravanalreadywalkedahead,we-beingunacclimatized-areslowerthanthehorses,ofcourse.Inthesteepscreetraversebelow,wemeetourfate:Ahorsefelldownthreehundredmeters,itwasthehorsethatcarriedourtwoequipmentbarrels.Withthefrightenedremaininghorses,wecarefullydescendtotheareawherethecontentsofourbarrelsisscattered.Thebarrelcontainingthecansandclimbingequipmentisstillintact,butmanybeveragecansaredamaged,theircontentsformingastickymixturetogetherwithseveralinstantpowderpackages.Thesecondbarrel-theonewiththeinstantfoodandsoups-isdamaged.TheTibetansthoroughlysearchtheslopeforusableremains.Manyinstantfoodpackagesareopen,coughsweetsandlotsofinstantdrinkpackagesarewet,thebreadconsistsofcrumbsonly.Aboutonefourthtoonethirdofthecarefullyarrangedcaloriesislost.Adesaster,sinceitwasplannedtolastexactlyfor28days.Ourchancesonthemountainwillbesubstantiallyreduced:Weeitherhavetohurryupwithnormalrations,orwehavetolivewithreducedrations.Onlytheunneccessarythingslikeinstantcoffee,themostbeercans,andeventhewinebottlehaveremainedintact.Whatwelearnfromthisincident:Bettertakecarethatyoursuppliesarenotloadedontoonesinglehorse.Afteranythingthatcouldbeusefulwascollected2,provisonallycleanedandsomehowwrappedup,wehaveanhour'swalktoZimei3480m,wheredenseforestisfoundagain.WefindaccomodationinaTibetanhouseagain,oneofthehorsedroversliveshere.Thedishesintheshelvesarenotasnumerousaswherewestartedtoday,andalsothereisnostove-thereisonlyalargeopenhearthinthelivingroom....Intheeveningsnowfallbegins,thisseemstobetheusualdailycourseoftheweatherhere.2TheTibetanshavesearchedverycarefullyandcollectedevensinglecoughsweets.Sunday,15April2001Zimei-GonggaGompa-MeadowThefirewasonforquitesometimelastevening,sowegetupwellsmokedthismorning.Thelosthorsecouldbereplaced,wehaveelevenhorsesagain:Threeandahalfareusedbyourstuff,twoareridinghorsesforourChinese,andtheremaining512carrytheirbaggageandwhattheyapparentlyneedfortheirstayatGonggaGompa.Itiscloudytoday,wedon'tknowifthisistherestofthedepartingbadweatherorifitwouldsimplystaybad.Afterasteepdescentof150meters,theriveriscrossedonabridge.Throughdense,mistyforestthetrailascendsthesaftertwohours,thelamaseryGonggaGompa3741misreached.Thebuildingseemsatleastpartiallyrestored,afterithadbeenalmostcompletelydestroyedintheculturalrevolution.NowithasaChineseratherthanaTibetanroof.OurChinesewillstayhere,untilwewillbebackfromthemountaininaboutthreeweeks.SomeoftheTibetansagreetohelpuscarrytheequiplemttotherealbasecampatthebaseofthemountain-foranadditionalY70perporter,ofcourse.Withfiveporters-threewomenandtwomen-wecontinueourwaysoon.First,unfortunately,hundredmetersdowntothebaseofthevalley,thenslowlyascendingfollowingtheriverandthenorthernedgeoftheglacier.Theheavyloadsslowdownourprogress,moreandmoreoftentheportersandwe,tooneedarest.Asattwoo'clocksnowfallsetsin,theactionfindsitsendatamoreorlesstent-friendlymeadow.Furtherupthereisnopossiblecampsiteinview.4090m,therearestillaboutfourhundredmetersmissingtoourplannedbasecampsite.And,wehaveonlymadefourandahalfoftheeightkilometers.Wewillseehowthetwoofuswillgetallourstufftothebasecamptomorrow.Ashorttimeofclearerskymakesitpossibletoquicklybringupaloadfurthertowardsbasecamp.Onreturntothetent,itissnowingagain.Monday,16April2001CarryloadstothebasecampThenightwasspentquitewell,exceptthatthesmokysmellofyesterdaydoesn'tleavethesleepingbagsoquickly.Themorningismistywithabout0°Ctemperature.Eachofuscarriwefindagoodsiteat4380m.Attwelve,itbeginstohailagain,atoneo'clockwearebackatthelowertentonthemeadow.Theweatherdoesn'tallowasecondtransport,theafternoonismistyanduncomfortable.Snowandsofthailallthetime.TheterrainisnottoowellsuitedtocarryheavyloadsTuesday,17April2001CarryloadstothebasecampTheweatherisbettertoday,alreadyinthemorningwecanseefurtherthanfivemeters.Furtherawaythereisevensomebluesky.Untilteno'clockitbecomessunnyalsohere,andaslateasfiveintheafternoonthenexthailwillcome.Weprofitfromthegoodweatherandcarrythreeloadstothebasecamp.Exceptforthefewthingsthatarestillatthedepotat4280m,ourhomeforthenextthreeweeksiscompletenow.Consideringthealtitudeof4380mthereisalotofvegetationhere:besidesgrasstherearedensebushes,lotsofjuniper,andmostlythreedifferentkindsofbushontheslopes:onewithoutthorns,onewithsome,andthethirdoneconsistsamostonlyofthorns.Allofthemareabouthalfameterhigh.Everywherelotsofdifferentbirdscanbeheard-aniceareaforabasecamp.Exceptforus,notasoultomorrowthefourcomradesfromMagdeburgshouldarrive.Thatwouldmakesixpeopleinthevalleythisspring.Meanwhilethereisalsosomewaterrunninginthecreek.Strange,whywecould'tfindtheslightesttraceofwaterthereyesterday.||Part4:MinyaKonkaWednesday,18April2001FinallyinthebasecampItsnowedquiteawhileduringthenight.Inthemorning,however,itiscloudless.Unfortunately,MinyaKonkaisstandingexactlyinthesun'sway,thebasecampgetssunnotuntilnine.Butthatdoesn'tmatter,wedon'thaveanylargerexcursionsplannedfortoday.Thematerialfromthedepotisquicklyfetched,andthentheremainingfoodsuppliesarelookedthroughandsorted.Sincewehaverunningwaternearby,alsosomepersonalhygieneispossible.Theweatherisbeautifulandnicelywarm.MinyaKonkaistowering3200metersabovethebasecamp,anoutstandingview.Thursday,19April2001Reconnaissanceoftheroutetocamp1Thefirsttransportofloadstocamp1isduetoday.Ofcourse,weshouldfirstknowabouttheroute.TheslopethatgivesaccesstotheMinyaKonkanorthwestridgeisdividedbythreebuttresses,andinbetweenthosetherearelargehangingglaciers.Thenormalroutefoitslowerpartconsistsofrocktheso-calledPyramid&quot,furtherupthebuttressiscoveredbytheglacier.ThemostexpeditionswentaroundthePyramidandreachedthebuttressthroughaglacierramp.Thisramp,however,haslostalotofglaciermeanwhile,andasteeprockbandmustbeclimbeddirectlyundertheséracs-thisseemsnottooavalanche-safetous.ThereforewebeginwiththerockcresttowardsthePyramid,butabout200heightmetersbeforetheendwecometotheconclusionthattherearesomesteepanddelicatepassagesahead,makingtheroutenotagoodwayupanddownthebuttress.We'dhavetousetherouteasanaccesstocamp1whichwillhavetobemadequiteofteninthefuture.Sothisisnotareallygoodroute.Meanwhileitis11o'clock,thesnowgetssoft.WecandepositsomematerialinthemorainebasinonthePyramid'srightside.Noideaaboutcontinuingtheascent,ourstepsarealreadyknee-deepinthesnow.Sowe'llhavealookatthenormalroutetomorrowandleavetwohoursearlierthantoday.Intheafternoon,asinglehugeyakwalksaroundnearourtent.Mutualdistrustletsuskeepsomedistance,soweseeitonlyfromfurtheraway.Wearenottoosorrytohaveavoidedacloseencounter.OurbasecampatMinyaKonka,4380mFriday,20April2001Carryingloadstocamp1Startedat5am,theweatherseemsnottohavedecidedyetifthecloudsaretherestofyesterday'ssnowfalloralreadythebeginningofthenextbadweatherperiod.Duetothecloudsatnight,thesnowcouldnotfreeze,sothewayuptothemorainebasinisquitearduous.Furtherupitbecomesbetter,fortunately.Thewayfromthemorainebasintothebigcouloirthatleadsbehindthepyramidisasteeprockpassagefullofscree,nottoodifficultI-II.Sincethere'salotofsnowandwewillsurelybetiredonourwayback,weleaveafixedropeforthedescent.Thebaseofthecouloiriscompletelyharmlessexceptthatallavalanchesfromfurtherupwouldrushinhere,sothereisquitfurtherupthecouloirbecomessteeper,about40°.Butthesnowisgood,wereachthebuttressat10am,butitistoonarrowtopitchatent.Itmightbepossibleinthesnowsaddleabitfurtherup.Wedepositourloadtent,rope,materialat5310mandbeginthedescent.Thecouloirissunnynow,andsoonthewetsnowwouldbecomedangerous.Descentfromcamp1Backatbasecamparound1pm,againsoveryimpressedbythebeautifuldescentfromthemorainebasintothevalleythroughdeepwetsnowbetweenhiddensmallerandlargerscree.Wemeetourfriend,thehugeyak,againonthedescent.Itisratheruninterested.ThereisnothingtoseeabouttheMagdeburggroup.Saturday,21April2001RestdayinthebasecampLastnight,ithasdiligentlysnowedagain,10cmliethismorning.Themorninthiswillbecomearest-day.Althoughthesuncomesoutsoon,onehearsandseesastonishinglyfewavalanches.Weread,eat,sortfoodandconsiderthefurthertactics.Ifitworks,wewillnotusethebadplaceatthepyramidasacampsiteatallandrathersetupacampinthemorainebasin4800mandanotheronthenorthwestridge6000minstead.Intheevening,threeofthefourMagdeburgguysSteffen,HeikoandJensarriveathalfpastfourafterextensivehikesonthewrongglacierside2.TheirfourthmanDirkstillremainedinGonggaGompa,buttheymustanywaystillgoseveraltimestoandfrotilltheyhaveeverythinginthebasecamp.MinyaKonkaSunday,22April2001TothecampinthemorainebasinNotbeforenoon,wegotothemorainebasinwithatent,highcampsleeping-bagsandalotoffoodinordertosetupacampthere.Throughthesoftandwetsnow,thisisaarduoustask,taking234hoursforonlyabout500heightmeters.Thenewcampliesat4850mshortlybeforeitreallygetssteep,atthelastplacesafeofrockfallandavalanches.Fromhereonecannicelywatchhowtheeveningcloudwormwandersupthevalley,firstfloodingGonggaGompawithfog,lateralsothebasecamp.Intheevening,therockfallattheglacierstillrumblesalongtime,butthisisfarawayfromtheroute.Ofcoursethenoiseneverthelessdisturbsoursleep.Monday,23April2001BacktobasecampLeftthecampathalfpasttwo,basicallyonlytofindoutthatthesnowismuchtoosoft-aftertwentyminutesweonlygained50heightmeters,sowecanforgetaboutthe1200meterstotheridge.Alsouptothepyramiditwouldbeatremendouswork.Soweturnbackandgodowntothebasecamp.Aswecatchuponoursleep,wehearpeoplepassingbyaroundteninthemorning.ItcannotbetheMagdeburgguys,theywanttobebackintheafternoon.ItisfourCzechpeoplewhohavechosensomelowermountainsaroundMinyaKonkaastheirdestination-accordingtotheinformationtheygive.TheyonlyhavetimeuntilMay4.Today'sweatherisrathercloudywithsunnystages.Inthesunitquicklygetsverywarm,butalreadyat3pmthecoldmistcomesinagaintogetherwithwindandhail-timetoretreatintothetent.Tuesday,24April2001Onceagainweleavethebasecampat5am,onceagaininslightsnowfall.Butthatchanges:thesnowgetsmoreandmoredense.Ouroriginalplantopitchthetentatcamp1andeventuallystaytherehasmovedtothefuture.Itwouldn'tbeagoodideatostayupthereinbadweatherandmaybenothavethepossibilitytodescendduetoavalanchedanger.Anyway,everythingthatwemightneedisatthemorainecamp,andwearewellacclimatizedrestpulse52inthebasecamp,athomeIhave54.Afterourvisitatthemorainecampandashortattemptfurtherabove,endinginsnowflurry,wereturntothebasecamp.Thesnow-coveredloosescreeandgrassslopesgiveenoughoccasionforanextremelyquickdescent.SnowfallatthemorainecampItcontinuestosnowalltheday.Intheeveningatabout7pmitsuddenlyclearsup,andwecanseeMinyaKonkainthesunsetforthefirsttime.EveninginthebasecampWednesday,25April2001Ascenttocamp1Starrynightatbasecamp.Againittakestwohtherewetakethebaggagethatwedepositedyesterday-maybewecanfinallytakeittocamp1today.Sincetheovernightstayinthemorainecampisveryuncomfortableandsinceitiscompletelyunclearifonecangouptothenorthwestridgeinoneday,wehavedecidedtousecamp1atthepyramidasaregularcampsite.Yesterday'ssnowisstillverydeepinthecouloir.Theupperpartstanattempttoavoiditandclimbontherightsideofthesmallglaciertongueinordertotraversebacktocamp1isnotsuccessful.Theiceisverybadandsteep.Sooursecondattemptleadsusoverthesnowyrocksontheleftsideofthecouloir,andthenonthehorizontalridgecrestfinallytocamp1,5310m-aftersevenhours!Ofcourse,ourruckackswereratherheavy,butnowwehaveeverythingherethatweneedforanovernightstay.Aftertwohours,wehavegainedaplatformforthetentoutoficeandsnow.Meanwhilehailissettinginagain,andthewindmovesthesnowtodifferentdirections.Soonincamp1Thursday,26April2001UnsuccessbacktothebasecampAfterwespentthenightatcamp1quitewell,westartourreconnaissanceofthewayupathalfpastfour.Itisnotverycold,butthewindissomewhatannoying.Theconditionsareverybad:assoonasitgetssteeper,thereishardwatericebelowa10cmthickloosesnow.Atmorethan45°slopewithafreeviewdowntobasecamp,wearenotverykeenonthisterrain.Alsooursecondattemptfurthertotherightisfinishedaftertenminutes.Beforethesnowsettles,thereisnotmuchtobedonefurtherup,excepttosecureeverythingwithfixedropes.Forthat,however,wedon'thaveenoughropes.Butwhenshouldthesnowsettle,ifthereishardlyhalfadayofsunshine?Wedescendtobasecamp.Thecouloirremainsstable,thesnowisveryinhomogeneousduetothewindduringthenight.Besideshardpassages,therearesomedeepsnowpassages,too.Theaccesstothenorthwestridgewherecamp2shouldbeestablishedat6000mcausesalotmoredifficultythanexpected.Theweatheriscompletelyunpredictableexceptthatitisusuallybadintheafternoons,thetimeofdaythatcanbeusedforclimbingisveryshortateleventhesnowgetswetandavalanchedangerincreases,andtheconditionsaresimplyfarfrombeinggood.Itisnotjustacoupleofmetersbutseveralhundredmetersofhardice.Wedon'thavesuchanamountofropeswithus,andforahighcampaccessthispassagemustbewellequipped.Ourtentincamp1Willwehavearealisticchanceatall,afterwehavehardlycomebeyondcamp1afteraweek,thatisonlyaboutathirdoftheheightdifferencetothesummit?Ifthenextattemptdoesn'tproceedbetter,itprobablymakesnomoresensetotry.OnMay10,wewillhavetoclosedownourbasecamp.Forasummitattempt,weneedeightdays,evenifeverythinggoesperfectupthere:Day1:tocamp1Day2:tocamp2,pitchthetent,andbacktocamp1Day3:tocamp2andstaythereDay4:fixropesforthewaytocamp3,backtocamp2Day5:uptocamp3Day6:summitandbacktocamp3Day7:descendtocamp2Day8:descendtobasecampFriday,27April2001RestdayinthebasecampEverythingisgreythismorning.Aroundnoonthereisalittlebitofsun.Wehaveanotherrestday.SteffenundJenswillinspectthesituationatcamp1.Intheafternoonwelookaroundinthebasecampregion.ThelittlevalleyatthesidemoraineofXiaogongbaglacierisquitenice,at4600mthereisaninterestingnicheintherockwall,apparentlyalocationforreligiousceremonies.Thewayupthereissodenselyovergrownwiththethornybushesthatthisisapparentlyalocationofpenance.Soonthesmallvalleyabruptlyendsonthesteepmoraine,andtherewouldbeabeautifulviewtothewildicefallsandMinyaKonka,ifthecloudswouldnotcompletelyobscurethesummit.Wecontinueupthesteepscreeslope,reachingashoulderontheridgeat4970mwhichgivesagoodoverviewovertheslopesofthenorthwestridge.TheCzechhavereachedcamp1,aswecanseefromhere.Upto5000m,juniperandthethornbushesaregrowinghere.Theapproachingbadweatherforcesustoaquickdescent.Asthereisnorunningwaterinthebasecampforthethirddaynow,aone-hourexcursioninsidethevalleywheresomewhatercanbefoundisaddedintheevening.Later,snowfallandthunderstorm.Saturday,28April2001RestdayinbasecampAlmostthewholenightitsnowedagainandagain,butinthemorningthereareonlyafewcentimetersinthebasecamp.Theweatherisnottoobad,butClaudiahasalittlediarrhea.Sowepostponeourfinalleaveforcamp1untiltomorrowandrecoverinthebasecamp.ThroughthebinocularswecanseethattheCzechapparentlyarethefirstonestotacklethesteepslopeabovecamp1,howeveronlythreeropelengthsfar.Today,thesnowfallalreadysetsinattwoo'clock.Neverthelessonehastowalkanhourupthevalleytofindsomewater.Outofthe15daysafterwelefttheLiubavalley,onlytwowerewithoutsnowfalluptonow.Sunday,29April2001Theusualtwoorthreecentimetersofsnowinthebasecamp,butthemorningiscloudless.Thesnowmakesthewaytothemorainecampquiteuncomfortablewithallthesnow-coveredscree.Inthecouloir,wefindalotofaccumulatedloosesnow,sometimeswaist-deep.Soweneedsixhourstocamp1.SteffenandHeikoareoutforareconnaissanceofthewaytocamp2,togetherwiththeCzech.Whattheytellusontheradiodoesnotsoundverygood:Amajorpartoftheslopeissteepandicy,probablyrequiringfixedropes.TheCzechhaveindeedequipwewillhaveacloserlookatittomorrow.TheCzechbecomemoreandmorepuzzlingtous.Afterhavingfixedropesforourwaytocamp2,theywilldescendagaintomorrow,intendingtohikearoundthesouthernsideofthemountaintoMoxiandKangdinginordertobebackintimeonMay7inChengdu.AscendinginthecouloirMonday,30April2001Snowboundincamp1Yesterdayeveningateight,itbegantosnowafterall.Thismorning,too,snowfallandonlyafewmetersofsight.Sotherewillbenoascenttoday.Wewaituntiltomorrow,andifitisstillbadthen,we'llhavetogiveup.Evenifwewouldreachcamp2,wewouldn'thaveovercomethemaindifficultiesofthemountain.Badweatheronthenorthwestridgewouldbeamajorproblem,andourschedulecontainsonlyonereserveday.Asiftherewerenotenoughadversities,myisolationmattressbreaks,thesoindestructibleTherm-a-rest.Iadmititdoesnotleak,butifoneinflatesit,onedoesn'tgetasoftmattress,butahugeroundairbubbleinthecenter.Thestovedoesn'twork,probablydirtinthefuelpipe.Thiscanonlyberepairedinthebasecamp.Colddishestoday.Continuoussnowfallallthroughtheday.Twentycentimetersofsnowandthecorrespondingsnowdrift.Tuesday,01May2001FinaldescenttobasecampThenightonthedefectivemattresswasnotverycomfortable.Thismorning,wehaveaquitegoodweather,butinthemorningthecampisintheshadow,anditisverywindy.Despitethegoodweather,wecannotstayhereorevenfurtherascendwithoutstoveandmattress.Itistoolatetogetreplacementfromthebasecamp-wewouldbebacktocamp1notbeforetomorrow,andthenthetimetoourdeparture3wouldbetooshortforasummitattempt.Finaldescent.Athalfpastninewehavepackedthetentandallofitscontents,andwebeginthedescentthroughthecouloirwithratherunhandyrucksacks.Astonishingly,therearenomajoravalanches,butcertainlycarefulbehaviorinthecouloirwasnotwrong.Afterthreehourswearebackatthebasecamp.Thegoodweatherstaysalltheday,thereisonlyaslightwind.AvalancheintheslopesabovethecouloirOurfixedropehasacentimetericelayer.Viewfromthemorainebasinupwards,alongtheroute||Wednesday,02May2001AttemptatNochmaWhiletheMagdeburggroupstartstheirsummitattemptwiththewaytocamp1,wespendourtimeatthesmallermountains.Nochmahadanimpressiveappearancefromcamp1,sowedecidetovisitit.Thatturnsouttobeeasiersaidthandone.Themapdoesn'tshowthattheeastridgeisasteepandexposedclimbforwellabouthundredmeters,athingforwhichwewerenotprepared.Untilthereitisaniceridgewitheasyrockandsnow,butthefinal300meterstothesummitcannotbedonefromhere.Alsoifwecouldn'tclimbthesummitofNochmatoday:Theweatherstillisperfect,andthereisareallyuniqueviewofMinyaKonkafromthere.Thereishardlyanothermountainthatisenthronedinsuchawayaboveamessofglaciersandsecondarypeaks.Surpriseintheafternnon,backinthebasecamp:TwoGermansarevisitingus.OneofthemisworkinginChengdu,andhisfriendisvisinghiminChina.ThetwohadplannedatriptoMinyaKonkabasecampforalongtimealready.Intheevening,cloudsaregatheringagain.Thereisstillnowaterinthebrook,sowehavetogotothesourcedownthevalleyforanhour.P.4975.7andNochma5575Thursday,03May2001ClimbofNochmaAnotherattemptatNochmatoday.Alsotoday,theweatherisnice.WechoosethesmallvalleytowardsthebasecampmountainP.4975.7,reachtheglacierfromthesouthandaftersixhoursthesummit,withanaltitudeof5575m.Anice,notverydifficulttrip.Theviewisnotbadduetotheisolatedpositionawayfromthemainmountaingroup.WecannicelystudythebigMinyaKonka,2000mhigher.MinyaKonkaOnthesummitofNochma5575Summitpicture,thoughnotontheverybigoneSoondarkcloudscomefromthenortheast,andthunderstorm,hail,andrainsetin.Afterthreehoursofdescent,alittletiringduetothesoftsnow,screeandbushes,wearebackinthebasecamp.Fortheonly1200mheightdifference,thistripwasratherexhausting.Butprobablysimplyourshortfoodsupplieshaveweakenedus.Mostofthenicethingsthatonelikestoeatinbetweenthemealse.g.mayonnaise,cheese,sausagewerelostinthehorseaccident,andthemainmealsdon'tdeliverenoughcalories.Friday,04May2001RestdayinthebasecampModerateweatherwithsomehailshowers:Goodoccasiontotakedownthedepottentat4850m.Intheevening,thesuncomesout,andwecandryourstuffandbegintopackthethingsthatarenotnomorenecessary,e.g.thehighcampequipment.ForthewaybacktoChengdu,wecanthinkaboutthreeoptions:StayhereinthebasecampandclimbNochma'sneighborP.5604.The6000mpeaksinthemaincrestaretoodifficulttoreach.Attemptatthe6000mpeakatDagongbaglacieratleast2daysTrekkingaroundthesouthsideofMinyaKonka,astheCzechhadplannedit.ThismightevenbeaninterestingalternativetothetransportbacktoKangding.ThemistiscomingaroundthecornerCleaningupinthebasecampSaturday,05May2001RestdayinthebasecampReallyuglyweather,sothisisdaytoreadinthebasecamp.FortunatelywecouldexchangesomebookswiththeMagdeburggroup,otherwisewewouldn'thaveanythinglefttoread.Thisafternoonweevenhavetwothunderstorm,oritisonethatcamebackagain.Sunday,06May2001CarryingloadsdowntoGonggaGompaToday,wedescendeddowntothelamaserywiththefirstloads.Especiallythelowerpartoftherouteisverytiring,theretheroutefollowsthescreeoftheriverbedwithoutatrail.OurattemptstogatherinformationaboutthetrekkingpossibilitiesonthesouthsideofMinyaKonkafromourtwoladiesarenotverysuccessful.Thelamasinthelamaserygiveverydifferinginformationaboutdurationanddifficulty,theChinesedon'tknowthearea,andofcourseitwouldbesomucheasiertodrivetoMoxiinsteadofhikingthereonunknowntrails.ApparentlyitisnotverypopularinChinatovoluntarilygoonfootifdrivingispossible.SinceneitherourattendantsnorthoseoftheMagdeburggrouphaveanymeansofcommunicationtotherestoftheworld,itisnotpossibletohavethecarspickusupearlier.ItwouldhavebeenniceiftheChineseinsteadatleasthadeitheragoodknowledgeofthearea,ororganisationskills.But,weareinChina,notinNepal.Sothisisonlywishfulthinking.Thewaybacktothebasecampisverylongand-evenwithouttheloads-veryexhausting.Thesunshineofthemorninghasdisappeared,darkcloudsreleasehailandrain.TheMagdeburggrouphadplannedtoinstallcamp2today.Thebadweatherwithseverestormsinthealtitudeforcethembacktocamp1,andtheydecidetofinallygiveup.Monday,07May2001RestdayinthebasecampSun,clouds,windandmistinvaryingcompositionduringtheday.Sincethecloudsareverylow,westayinthebasecamp.Three-understandablyfrustrated-Magdeburgmembersarriveatthebasecampintheafternoon.Tuesday,08May2001RestdayinthebasecampTheweatherseemsnottolikeustoclimbNochma'shigherneighbor5604m:Allthedayissnows,everywhereavalanchesareroaring,butwecannotseetheminthemist.Wednesday,09May2001Dismantlingthebasecamp,descenttoGonggaGompaSometimethisnightthesnowfallfinallyhasstopped.Wehave15cminthebasecamp.Despitegoodweatherinthemorning,thisistoomuchtobreakatrailupthesteepslopesattheglacierinthebacksideofthevalley.Themorningiscompletelycloudless,butinhighaltitudequicklycirruscloudsareapproaching,settlingatthesummit.Soonthesunreachesthebasecamp,andweenjoythewinterscenery.Ashortpleasureonly,thecloudsgaintheupperhandagain.Wehurryuptohavetentandequipmentpackedindryweatherandleaveadayearlierthanscheduled.Asexpected,thewaytothelamaseryisarealgrind.Thesnowsettleduntilfardownthevalley,makingthescreenicelyslippery.Withaloadof25-30kgthisisrealfun.Indensesnowfallwearriveatthelamaseryafteraboutfourhours,immediatelybeingreceivedbyourChineseladieswhoquicklyprovideduswithsomefood.Thetwolamasmonksinspectcramponsandiceaxeswithinterest.Notonlyweareadayaheadofschedule,alsothehorsesarealreadyhere.SowecangoslowlytoZimeitomorrow,andthedayafterwewillreachLiuba.||Part5:TrekkingbacktocivilisationThursday,10May2001GonggaGompa-ZimeiAgaincloudy,slightsnowfall.Thelamaseryissituatedinaforestofmulberrytrees,therearemoreanimalsthanaroundthebasecamp.Asortofchickeniswalkingaround,squirrelsarerushingthroughthemanipiles.Themeadowsarebeinginspectedbygruntingyoungpigs.Hartmut,Claudia,LiaisonOfficer,InterpreterOnthewaytoZimeiAfterawhile,horsesandyaksarefinallyloaded,andwebeginourwaydowntotheriverthroughbeautifulmulberryforests.TheascenttoZimeiturnsintokindofarodeo:Severalridingattemptsofourladiesdidn'tlastlong,theyhavetomakethe150heightmetersonfoot.Theyakthatcarriesourtwosacksturnsouttobeveryreluctant.Afteritthrewofftheloadthesecondtime,thethingsarepackedontootheryaks.Wearecurioushowthingswillevolvetomorrowonthelongwayoverthepass.AccomodationisagainintypicallyTibetanatmosphere-woodfireinthelivingroom.Tibetanhouseshaveusuallyatleasttwostoreys,theloweronebeingthebarn,theupperone-accessibleonsteepstairs-containingthelivingrooms.Themainroomisverybiginthiscaseabout60m2,butthereishardlyanyfurnitureexceptforbedsandbuilt-inclosetsatthewall.InZimeiThelooisfullybiological-itconsistsofaholebesidesthestairstotheloft.Underneaththishole,gruntingcanbeheardthelowerflooristhebarn.Fortunately,thelooisatthesameplaceinallhousesofavillage,soitcaneasilybefoundevenindarkness.Windowsarescarceinmosthouses.HereinZimei,theTibetans'foodconsistsnotonlyoftsampaandbuttertea4,butalsoriceinthepressurepotmZimeiisat3500maltitudeandpotatoes.Thelatterarecutlikefrenchfries,sotheycanbehandledwiththesticks5.Forthispurpose,thehousewifehasawoodenboardwithafixedknife,andthepotatoesarequicklymovedovertheknife.4Ittakesabitofgettingusedtobuttertea.Onecandrinkitmoreeasilyconsideringittobeasortofsoupratherthantea.5TheethnicTibetansherehavebeenlivinginaChineseprovcorrespondinglymorepronouncedisChina'sculturalinfluence,comparedtoTibet.Friday,11May2001Zimei-ZimeiLa-LiubaAtquarterpasteightinthemorningwesetoffwith6yaksand3horses.ItismorethanthousandmetersofaltitudegaintoZimeiLa,butallthethrow-offandre-pack-the-yakactionssignificantlyreducethespeed.Theupperportionofthetrailisverymuddy,thereisstillquitealotofsnow.TheweatheaswereachZimeiLa4560mathalfpasttwelve,however,somecloudsalreadyobscuretheviewtoMinyaKonka.ViewbacktoMinyaKonkaThewaydowntoLiubamakesnoproblems,butthecaravanbecomesslowerandslower.Theyaksgettired,butneverthelesstheytrysomestupidwrongtracksagainandagain.Ataboutfour,theodysseyfindsanendatLiuba.Aswealreadyhadsuspected,thisonedayaheadofscheduledidn'thelpus.AlthoughthedatewasclearsinceourfirstcarrydowntoGonggaGompa,ourladiesdidn'tgetmanagedtoforwardthisinformationtoChengdu.Therewouldhavebeenanoccasiontodoso,sincethecontactpersonoftheMagdeburgexpeditionwalkeddowntoLiubainordertoinformabouttheirearlierreturn.SotheMagdeburggroupgetstheircarsaccordingtothenewplans,butwewon't-ourswillcometomorrowasscheduled.ThisisabasicprobleminChina:Changesofplansareobviouslyvery,verydifficult.Especiallysinceweneverknowiftheinterpreterreallyunderstoodwhatwewereaskingfor.||Part6:Liuba-ChengduSaturday,12May2001DrivetoShadeThistime,wespentthenightonthehalf-openloft.Theairtherewasdefinitelybetterthanintheliving-roomagainwithopenfire.Architecturaldifferenceofthishousecomparedtotheothers:noproblemssearchingtheloo-thereisnone.WespendthedayhikingupthelittlevalleyabovethehamletupperMuji,butafterawhilethisendsinsnowdrift.Therestoftheafternoonwearewaitingforthecarswhichshouldarrivesoon.Ataboutfouro'clockthefirstcarappears,soontheothertwoalsocome.Atthesametime,alsotheMagdeburgguysandtheircaravanarrivefromZimei.Loadingallthebaggageintothecarsisaverycomplextaskwhochissolvedmoreorlesssuccessfully.Altogetherwedrivefortwohours60kmuntilthevillageShade63240m,wherewehaveChinesestylesupperandevenbeer.Thisnightisspentroomswithrealbeds,andwithoutsmoke.6ThisisthefirstvillagewithmostlyChineseconcretehousesalongtheroad.Sunday,13May2001DrivetoKangdingAnothertwohoursonthequitebadroadupthevalley,untilwereachthepavedroad70km.Passingthe4300mhighpass,wesoonreachKangding312hours,about120kmaltogether.Thisevening,wehaveaHotPotrestaurant-thatissomethinglikeMongolianfondue.OneofthetwobrothsissospicythatnoEuropeanwouldhavesurviveditwithoutseriousdamage.Monday,14May2001DrivetoChengduTheroadfromKangdingtoYa'anleadsthroughnarrow,curvedvalleys.TheapparentlyusualChinesedrivingstyleisbestdescribedashellish.Wearehappytoreachthenice,straightexpresswayYa'an-Chengdu.Aftereighthours,wecanliedownintheTibetHotelinChengdu.Anythingelsewouldn'tbeagoodidea,itisverywarm28°CandmuggyinChengdu.Dinnerisdifferenttoday:Insteadofthelargedishesforalltogether,there'salotofsmalldishesforeachoneindividually.Chickens'feetarenottoeveryone'staste,buttodaythereisalsoalotoflessspicyandevensweetdishes.||Part7:ChengduTuesday,15May2001ChengduSightseeingdayinChengdu:WevisitthetempleareaofZhaojueSiandhavelunchinthevegetarianrestaurantthere,wherevegetarianimitationsofbeef,chickenandfishareserved-partofthemquiteconvincing,partnotsomuch.AfterthesecondtempleWenshuYuan,theculturalprogramisfinishedfortoday.Dinnerisexcellentagain,thistimewithagoodviewtotheBigChairman.InthecenterofChengdu,thelastbigMaostatueisfound.ZhaojueSiWednesday,16May2001FlightChengdu-BeijingWeleaveChengduandourtwoladiesonedayearlierthanoriginallyscheduledinodertohavemoretimeforBeijing.NotwithouthavingpaidY200foroverweightbaggagebefore.InBeijing,wereachthecenterwithoutproblemsbybus,andwecanconvinceataxidriveraboutthecapacityofhiscar.Soastonishedisheaboutthehugeamountofstuffthatwecanpackintohissmallcar,hedoesn'tacceptatipatall.Thehotel7cannotbecomparedtothoseinChengduandKangding,butherewe'llhavetopayitourselves.Y217foradoubleroominsuchacentrallocationisaverygoodprice.Abitunusual,however,thatwedon'thavearoomkeyandwehavetoaskthewardresstoopenourdoortoaccessourroom.Intheevening,wemeetDirkandHeikointhepedestrianzoneWangfujingDajie.TheyhadreachedBeijingyesterday.DinnerataninternationrestaurantchainwhichhasspecializedonItalianstyledishes.Good,butratherexpensive.||Part8:BeijingThursday,17May2001BeijingSincethedaysareveryhotinBeijing,wevisittheForbiddenCityinthemorningatnine.InspiteoftheY40entrancefeeandthelotsofpeople,thisisreallyworthvisiting.Afterthat,wevisitBeihaiParkwiththeWhitePagodawhichisnotfaraway,offeringagoodviewofthecity-ifthecitywerevisibleinallthehaze.Friday,18May2001BeijingGreatWallExcursiontotheGreatWall.Fortoday,36°Careannounced.SowetakethetouristbusfromQianmenathalfpastseven.WehavetwohoursattheWallatBadaling-enoughtogobeyondthetouristmassesandexploreacompletelyquietpieceofGreatWall.Thiscanbecomeratherexhausting,thestairsareverysteepindeed.HavingvisitedtheWall,thebusbringsustothe13Mingtombs.AsthiswouldagaincostanentrancefeeofY45,wespendthetimeatthesnackbar.Saturday,19May2001BeijingTodaywevisittheHeavenTempleTiantaninthesouthofthecity.Moreexactlyspeaking,theparkaroundit-thereareticketsforY15andothersforY35,andonlythelatterincludeadmissiontothebuildings.Anyway,wedon'twanttobeonsightseeingtoursolonginthesehotdays,sowechoosethecheaperoption.Afterlongsearch,weevenfindapostofficeandgetthestampsfortheexpeditionpostcards.TheChineseNationalMuseum-Y20entrancefee-turnsouttobeverydisappointing.Just179exhibits,eachofthemsurelyimpressive,butwithoutclearorder.Iwouldn'tbelievethatsomanythousandyearsofhistorycouldeasilybereducedto179pieces.DinneratthenightmarketnorthwestofWangfujingDajie.Thereonecanfindeverythingtospoilawesterner'sappetite:skewerswithsquids,beetles,grasshoppers,lobsters,crabs,orevenscorpions.Butthereisalsomorecivilizedfood.Sunday,20May2001Beijing-FrankfurtFlightbacktoFrankfurt.AsopposedtothesceneinChengdu,therearenoproblemscheckinginourstuff,exceptthatourkitbagsaredefinedasoversize,theyhavetobebroughttotheoversizecounter.InFrankfurt,wearedelayedhalfanhour,andthebaggageisthereafteranhourofwaitingtime,becauseitwasdirectedtothewrongconveyorbelt.Athalfpastmidnightwereachhome,correspondingtohalfpastfiveinthemorning,consideringthejet-lag.
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